5 cold-water adventures

Wreck diving has become a major activity in recent years, but real-time virtual exploration is possible, too. Roving Eye Enterprises charters a boat equipped with a Remote Operated Vehicle (ROV) that can navigate the waters independently of the boat to explore the wrecks. A built-in video camera relays the images to a large television screen accompanied by a full commentary for the passengers about the extent and background of the wrecks.

Diving in Orkney isn’t just about the wrecks, though. Stanger Head is a dramatic site with a deep drop straight from the cliffs, enormous rocks on the bottom, big caves and a swimmable passage right through the headland. And the voyage to the Old Man of Hoy, an iconic rock stack on the Atlantic side of Orkney, leads past the red sandstone cliffs of the Kame of Hoy and the 1,200-foot St. John’s Head, the highest vertical cliff face in Britain. Weather permitting, it’s possible to dive at the “feet of the Old Man.”

Of course, what’s a visit to Scotland without draining a few drams? The Orkney Distillery doesn’t disappoint with its Scapa Flow single-malt scotch. And if your dive gear already has you over-weight on the airplane, then stock up on the region’s beautiful handcrafted silver jewelry.

MUST DO
The Italians
In 1940, Churchill bolstered defense of Scapa Flow by installing concrete causeways between the islands, from which many blockship remains can still be seen. The Italian POWs who built the Churchill Barriers also built themselves the beautiful Italian Chapel on Lamb Holm that can still be visited today.

MUST DIVE
1. The light cruiser Brummer
2. The light cruiser Koln
3. The blockship Doyle
4. The blockship Gobernador Bories
5. The WWII escort ship F2

FOR MORE INFORMATION

Scapa Scuba: Fast Facts
PADI dive center All skill levels Guided boat and shore diving Charters PADI specialties include drysuit diving and nitrox Full dive shop Equipment rentals  011-44-1856-851218Web: http://www.scapascuba.co.uk/

VESTFJORD, NORWAY: The Great Herring Hunt
Every November, intrepid travelers journey 170 miles north of the Arctic Circle in hopes of seeing of one of nature’s greatest spectacles: orcas on their great herring hunt in Norway’s stunning Vestfjord. Vestfjord is one of the few places in the world where you’re almost guaranteed to encounter orcas underwater and to witness entire pods on their primal hunt.

Each year, millions of tons of herring single out the spectacular Vestfjord, a far-reaching inlet that cleaves Norway’s rugged snow-dusted mountains, for a particular form of hibernation. There the herring dive deep into the cold water, slowing their metabolism and reducing their need to feed. Drawn to this enormous food source, hundreds of orcas converge in the herring-stuffed fjords and wait until the clouds of fish drift toward the surface. And while the shoals of fish converge here for up to five months, November is the peak gorging season for the orcas.

During the six hours of daylight, divers perch on an inflatable zodiac (with snorkel and scuba gear at the ready), tracking the orcas by scanning for telltale signs of their presence — blow-spouts bursting across the horizon like underwater bombs being detonated, and slick black dorsal fins that pierce the water’s surface like periscopes.

In the ideal scenario, the drysuit-clad diver slips into the 38-42°F water to snorkel (scuba is the exception rather than the rule) amongst the hunting pod. Chirps, whistles and blows vibrate through the diver’s body as an entire pod swirls some 10 feet below. They cast curtains of bubble-nets around the herring, drawing them tighter until the fish transform the near-freezing water into an apparent boil. That’s when the orcas flip nose-down and smack their powerful tails up then down through the dense throngs of fish, stunning them into paralysis and allowing the orcas to feed at leisure.

An encounter like this is the ultimate reward for the investment required for such a journey. But the pay-offs continue well into the dark hours of the day — perhaps at a pub where you drink like the locals, playing cards, swapping stories and feasting on local specialties. Or watch the purple and neon-green northern lights dance across the cold, clear sky. You blink and rub your eyes before realizing you are witnessing a display of aurora borealis: proof, once again, that nature never sends invitations for her best shows. She performs at will, for anyone lucky enough to be in the right place at the right time.

MUST DO

All-Nighter
Oslo’s nightlife is hot 365 days a year with cafes, bars and nightclubs open till 3 a.m. If after a week on a live-aboard you’re yearning for some stimulation, plan for a late night before catching your flight home.

FOR MORE INFORMATION

Big Animals Photography Expedition: Fast Facts
Vestfjord, Norway Trips scheduled every November Six full days of orca searching  Maximum five guests Must be drysuit experienced 91-foot live-aboard M.S. Langoysund877-2-C-WHALEWeb: http://www.biganimals.com/

As the official publication of the PADI Diving Society, Sport Diver is the magazine divers turn to each month to find out what’s going on in their world. Sport Diver is the ultimate source for up to date information on dive culture, equipment, travel, training and PADI Diving Society activities.

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