Kicking Beaujolais up a notch

TASTING NOTES
We considered 31 Beaujolais wines by individual cru. These showed the best. More substantial cru Beaujolais often benefits from being opened a few hours early so it can breathe. You could even decant older vintages.

Potel-Aviron 2003 Chénas (Frederick Wildman and Sons, $16): Best of the tasting, from the rarest of all the 10 crus. Aromatic and brooding, with blueberry, black cherry, licorice, nutmeg, hints of dry earth and a firm mineral core.  Silky, if forceful, at the beginning, with a long, chewy finish — though the tannins still need time to settle down. Keep this one around a few years.

Château de Pizay 2003 Morgon (David Milligan Selections, $13): Strong perfumed raspberry and cherry, with warm spice notes from some new oak and a hint of Burgundian gaminess. Luscious and full on the open, with a soft finish bolstered by fine tannins. Elegant and sizable.

Trénel et Fils 2003 Saint-Amour (Robert Chadderdon Selections, $19): Earthy, rich and heavily spiced, a Saint-Amour with substance. Full red fruit gives way to fine tannins, with a distinct mineral core.

Potel-Aviron 2003 Morgon Château-Gaillard (Frederick Wildman and Sons, $20): Burgundian winemaker Nicolas Potel is drawing attention to his Beaujolais project with wines like this, made from 65-year-old vines. Rich and earthy, with sour cherry, fresh herbs and warm vanilla. Bright in the middle, and finishes with a mix of warmth and tartness. Should keep blossoming over the next few years.

Georges Duboeuf 2004 Morgon Jean Descombes (W.J. Deutsch & Sons, $12): One of Duboeuf’s limited selections, drawing on top-notch plots like Bellevue and le Py and made in a traditional style, without oak. Big ripe strawberry to open, with floral hints in back. Bright and engaging.

Joseph Drouhin 2004 Juliénas (Dreyfus, Ashby & Co., $14): Aromatic strawberry and green leaves, with a smooth opening and a bright tart finish.  Already juicy and drinkable, with a crisp, clean minerality that helps define its structure.

Georges Duboeuf 2004 Domaine des Rosiers Moulin-a-Vent (W.J. Deutsch & Sons, $14): Dark and pungent, with blackberry, kirsch and cooking spices.  Already soft and approachable, with a chewy finish and enough weight for hearty foods.

Trénel et Fils 2002 Fleurie (Robert Chadderdon Selections, $17): Light floral and tangy fruit notes. Silky up front, with some tannic kick on the back. Ready to match a hearty meal. Did we mention Chadderdon often takes a couple years to release its Beaujolais?

Joseph Drouhin 2003 Moulin-a-Vent (Dreyfus, Ashby & Co., $19): Foresty and herbal, with sweet butterscotch notes and a strong, tannic finish.  Needs time to fully round itself out.

Domaine des Houdières 2004 Fleurie (Winesellers, Ltd., $17): Full and fleshy, with fresh berries and wet forest scents. Fine tannins on the end; it’s still a baby but ready to grow.

Prosper Maufoux 2003 Brouilly (House of Burgundy, $15): Rich scents of strawberry jam, with a strong mineral note. A heady, rustic aroma, though it finishes a bit short.

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