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Oven-Dried Tomatoes
Ted Allen

Makes about 2 cups

INGREDIENTS

2 pounds Roma or plum tomatoes
1 teaspoon kosher salt
2 tablespoons chopped fresh thyme, marjoram, or oregano
1-1⁄2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

DIRECTIONS

Preheat the oven to 250°F. Cut the tomatoes in half lengthwise, then squeeze them, cut sides down, over a sink to get rid of the seeds. Place them cut sides up on a baking sheet. Sprinkle with the salt and herbs and drizzle with the olive oil. Put the tomatoes in the oven and let them dry out very slowly until the flavor has concentrated and they’re wrinkly but still plump, 3-1/2 to 4 hours. Let them cool, then use immediately, or pack them in a jar with olive oil to cover; they will keep for up to 2 weeks.

TIPS

You have to try this; tomatoes that have been dried in the oven take on a very different, more intense flavor than raw tomatoes. Roasting them slowly dehydrates the flesh, concentrating the flavors and making them sweeter. These are much fresher and softer than prepackaged sun-dried tomatoes, which tend to be too chewy for some uses.

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Pan-Roasted Salmon with Sweet Tomato Vinaigrette
Ted Allen

Serves 4

INGREDIENTS

For the vinaigrette

1 medium shallot, sliced
2 tablespoons red wine vinegar
1 tablespoon nonpareil capers (the tiny ones), drained
1 pint cherry or grape tomatoes, cut in half lengthwise
1/2 teaspoon kosher salt
1/3 cup extra-virgin olive oil
1/3 cup canola oil
1 tablespoon chopped flat-leaf parsley
1 tablespoon chopped fresh basil
1/2 teaspoon ground cumin
1⁄8 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

For the salmon

3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1-1/2 to 2 pounds salmon fillets, with skin (about 1-1/2 inches thick at the thickest point)
1/2 teaspoon kosher salt
1/8 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

DIRECTIONS

Preheat the oven to 425°F. Make the vinaigrette: In a medium bowl, stir together the shallot, vinegar, capers, tomatoes, and 1/2 teaspoon salt. Let that stand while you cook the salmon, then stir in the 1/3 cup olive oil, 1/3 cup canola oil, parsley, basil, cumin, and 1/8 teaspoon pepper.

Heat the 3 tablespoons olive oil in a large, oven-safe frying pan over a medium-high flame. Sprinkle the salmon with the 1/2 teaspoon salt and 1/8 teaspoon pepper. When the oil is hot, add the fillets, skin side up, and cook, without messing with them at all, until they move easily when you shake the pan, about 3 minutes. If you pull them off before they’re ready, the browned layer will stick to the pan and you’ll lose the beautiful crust. Now turn the salmon and stick the pan in the oven. Roast until just cooked through, 6 to 8 minutes.

When the salmon is cooked, remove it to serving plates with a spatula. Add the vinaigrette to the pan, put it over medium heat, and bring just to a simmer, stirring with a wooden spoon to pick up the browned bits off the bottom of the pan. Cook until the tomatoes soften, about 2 minutes. Spoon the sauce over the salmon and serve.

Wine pairing: Fruity barbera or verdicchio

TIPS

You can buy farmed salmon all year round and it is one of your better bets for freshness. But wild salmon from Alaska, Washington, and California is definitely more flavorful, and it’s available throughout the summer almost anyplace with FedEx — which is to say, anyplace.

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