Wild West wine

RUSSIAN RIVER VALLEY
Quintessential Northern California, with dense evergreen stands and gnarly oaked knolls hugging one rolling vineyard after another. Russian River Valley Winegrowers (707/521-2534)

Davis Bynum Winery. Fascinating comparisons to be had among Pinot bottlings from all over the region. 10–5 daily; tasting fee varies. 8075 Westside Rd., Healdsburg; 800/826-1073.

Gary Farrell Vineyards & Winery. Tasting bar perched above the valley’s wildest part. Region-wide and single-vineyard Pinots. 11–4 daily; tasting $5. 10701 Westside Rd., Healdsburg; 707/473-2900.

Hartford Family Winery. Grand-scale château (the family is part of the Kendall-Jackson clan) in the exciting Green Valley appellation. Compare high-end single-vineyard Russian River Pinots with some from other regions. 10–4:30 daily; tasting free. 8075 Martinelli Rd., Forestville; 707/887-1756.

Iron Horse Ranch & Vineyards. Stand at the “tasting plank” laid across barrels near the barn and take in the vistas with a glass of bubbly, then a still Pinot. 10–3:30 daily; tasting $5. 9786 Ross Station Rd., Sebastopol; 707/887-1508.

J. Rochioli Vineyard & Winery. Homelike redwood room overlooking Rochioli vineyards. (The family has been growing grapes for other great local winemakers for decades.) 11–4 daily; tasting free. 6192 Westside Rd., Healdsburg; 707/433-2305.

LOS CARNEROS
Spanning southern Napa and Sonoma Counties, the region is interesting for its two big sparkling-wine houses that are leaving the bubbles out of some of their Pinot now. Carnernos Quality Alliance (or 707/253-2678)

Artesa Vineyards & Winery. Earth-covered structure that’s light and airy. Modern art gallery and mini wine museum. 10–5 daily; tasting from $10. 1345 Henry Rd., Napa; 707/224-1668.

Carneros Creek — Mahoney Vineyards. Homey, but a great Pinot education is to be had here. 10–5 daily; tasting $7. 1285 Dealy Lane, Napa; 707/253-9463.

Domaine Carneros. Still Pinot is a brilliant departure at this château owned by Champagne’s Taittingers. 10–6 daily; tasting from $14. 1240 Duhig Rd., Napa; 707/257-0101.

Gloria Ferrer Champagne Caves. Compare Pinot-heavy sparklers with still Pinots at this Spanish-owned winery. 10:30–5:30 daily; tasting fee varies. 23555 Carneros Hwy./State 121, Sonoma; 707/996-7256.

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