Wild West wine
NORTHERN WILLAMETTE VALLEY
Vineyards in small swaths through the hills share space with other crops. Willamette Valley Wineries Association (503/646-2985)
Adelsheim Vineyard. Fortresslike structure with a beautiful new tasting room. 11–4 Wed–Sun; tasting $5. 16800 N.E. Calkins Lane, Newberg; 503/538-3652.
Anne Amie Vineyards. Formerly Chateau Benoit, and a longtime favorite tasting spot for its grand outlook, Anne Amie is now making some impressive expressions of single vineyards. 10–5 daily; tasting fee varies. 6580 N.E. Mineral Springs Rd., Carlton; 800/248-4835.
Archery Summit. Some of the most expensive Pinots in the valley, the most beautiful caves. 10–4:30 daily; tasting $10. 18599 N.E. Archery Summit Rd., Dayton; 800/732-8822.
Argyle Winery. Antithesis of Archery: Barrels are housed in a former hazelnut-processing plant; tastings take place in a Victorian farmhouse. 11–5 daily; tasting fee varies. 691 State 99W, Dundee; 503/538-8520.
Bethel Heights Vineyard. Airy tasting room opens to deck over the vineyards and 100-point views. Interesting lineup of small-block Pinots. 11–5 Sat–Sun; tasting free. 6060 Bethel Heights Rd. N.W., Salem; 503/581-2262.
Carlton Winemakers’ Studio. Great place to taste the wares of multiple winemakers together. 11–5 daily; tasting fee varies. 801 N. Scott St., Carlton; 503/852-6100.
Cristom Vineyards. Mediterranean-feeling tasting room surrounded by beautiful gardens. 11–5 Wed–Sun; tasting free. 6905 Spring Valley Rd. N.W., Salem; 503/375-3068.
Domaine Drouhin Oregon. A prominent French winemaking family puts its stamp on Oregon Pinot in a sleek, simple Old World–New World structure. 11–4 Wed–Sun; tasting $5. 6750 N.E. Breyman Orchards Rd., Dayton; 503/864-2700.
Elk Cove Vineyards. Way the heck out there, where elk still might roam. Tasting room is perched on a knoll, where every view has a long finish. 10–5 daily; tasting free. 27751 N.W. Olson Rd., Gaston; 503/985-7760.
Ponzi Vineyards. Dick Ponzi personally put local stone and wood into this building. View the cellar while you taste (11–5 daily; tasting fee varies; 14665 S.W. Winery Lane, Beaverton; 503/628-1227). You can also taste Ponzi wines, and those from many other great local makers, at the Ponzi Wine Bar (11–5 Mon–Fri, 11–6 Sat–Sun; 100 S.W. Seventh St., Dundee; 503/554-1500).
Sokol Blosser Winery. Sustainably produced wines in a light, modern structure with a great deck. 11–5 daily; tasting from $5; or 503/864-2282.
WillaKenzie Estate. A drive, but worth it. Compare the intense, fruit-forward Pierre Léon Vineyard Pinot to the earthier, loamy Emery from higher up. 12–5 Fri–Sun and by appointment; tasting free. 19143 N.E. Laughlin Rd., Yamhill; 503/662-3280.
ANDERSON VALLEY
One of the most remote and beautiful — yet civilized — wine drives still to be had. Anderson Valley Winegrowers Association (707/895-9463)
Fife Vineyards. Best known for its Rhône reds, Fife has just opened a redwood tasting bungalow and will be releasing its first Pinot soon. 10–5:30 Thu–Mon; tasting free. 11201 Anderson Valley Way, Boonville; 707/895-2532.
Goldeneye. Practically Napa-esque sit-down tasting on a terrace looking across vineyard blocks to the redwoods. Napa is in fact moving in here — Goldeneye is owned by the Duckhorn Wine Company. 11–4 daily; tasting $5. 9200 State 128, Philo; 707/895-3202.
Husch Vineyards. Small (very) tasting hut under the oaks. Two Pinot styles — one lean and earthy, the other fruit-forward. 10–5 daily; tasting free. 4400 State 128, Philo; 800/664-8724.
Navarro Vineyards. The hub of wine-tasting traffic, and what Anderson Valley is all about — well-made wines (in this case, available only at the winery and in restaurants) at reasonable prices, poured in casual, creative spaces. 10–6 daily; tasting free. 5601 State 128, Philo; 707/895-3686.
Roederer Estate. This French-owned sparkling-wine house has grand views through the windows behind the bar. Taste the still Pinot Noir. 11–5 daily; tasting $3. 4501 State 128, Philo; 707/895-2288.
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