Wild West wine
$35 and over
Brick House “Les Dijonnais” 2003 (Willamette Valley; $45). Restrained and elegant, with bright acid carrying raspberry and dried-plum flavors.
Erath Prince Hill 2002 (Willamette Valley; $40). Intense and earthy; dried leaves and herbs give way to subtle dried cherries and milk chocolate. For Burgundy lovers only.
Esterlina 2002 Estate (Anderson Valley; $35). Slight herbal notes over blackberry, cherry, cassis, and black pepper. Chicken stew would make a match.
Goldeneye 2002 (Anderson Valley; $52). Generous to a fault with oak, but loaded with great berries (cran- and blue-), chocolate, vanilla, violets, and spice. Will age well.
Ken Wright Cellars Guadalupe Vineyard 2002 (Dundee Hills, OR; $40). Pleasant gamey, toasty nose, and wonderful fruit — dark berries, cherries, and plums.
Quail Cuvée 2002 (Russian River Valley; $40). Earthy nose of mushrooms, game, and leather gives way to rose petals, vanilla, chocolate, and a round, lively slate of plums, berries, and cola over minerals and silky tannins.
Rutz Cellars Dutton Ranch 2003 (Russian River Valley; $38). An elegant Pinot, with pretty floral notes and a hint of earth with raspberry, cherry, and cranberry fruit over spice.
Sanford, Sanford & Benedict Vineyard 2002 (Santa Rita Hills; $43). Lush fruit up-front — spicy raspberries and cherries — with chocolate. Roast some duck, or stir some bacon and peas into pasta.
Tandem Keefer Ranch 2003 (Green Valley, CA; $38). A charmer with a long finish. Smoke, vanilla, and cloves add layers of interest to big berry flavors. Try it with herb-roasted fish.
SANTA MARIA VALLEY AND THE SANTA RITA HILLS
Here, Pinot vineyards flank golden California hills. Santa Barbara County Vintners’ Association(805/688-0881)
Au Bon Climat Winery. The winery is not open to the public, but you can order its wines at http://www.aubonclimat.com/ or taste them at the Au Bon Climat Tasting Room (10–4 Thu–Mon; tasting $9; 3631 Sagunto St., Santa Ynez; 805/688-8688).
Foley Estates Vineyard & Winery. A new winery and visitor center for Foley Estates’ Burgundy-leaning Pinots is scheduled to open by Nov 1. 10–5 daily; tasting $5. 6121 State 246, Lompoc; 805/688-8554.
Foxen. Small farm shed is beyond rustic but houses finely crafted wines. 11–4 daily; tasting $5. 7200 Foxen Canyon Rd., Santa Maria; 805/937-4251.
Melville Vineyards and Winery. Taste estate-bottled Pinots at this gracious Mediterranean-style winery. 11–4 daily; tasting $5. 5185 E. State 246, Lompoc; 805/735-7030.
Sanford Winery & Vineyards. Rustic in the most beautiful sense. Total strangers compare opinions at the tasting table. 11–4 daily; tasting $5. 7250 Santa Rosa Rd., Buellton; 800/426-9463.
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