Fall in the Alps

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If you go:

GETTING THERE: The Engadine is in the heart of the Swiss Alps but well-connected given its isolation. Zurich airport, with direct links to many North American and European cities, is three to four hours by road or rail. There are also good connections through Milan in northern Italy.

GETTING AROUND: Car hire and taxis are available at the airport, but are expensive in Switzerland. Public transport is clean and efficient and can get you almost anywhere. Where train tracks run out, post buses take over to more isolated mountain resorts. Swiss rail timetable: http://www.rail.ch.

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LODGING: Villages throughout the Engadine have plenty of accommodation, although space can get tight and prices rise during the summer and winter high seasons. On a mountainside above Samedan, Berghotel Muottas Muragl, http://www.muottasmuragl.ch, is ideally situated for walkers at almost 8,200 feet above sea level. Doubles start at $104 a night and the hotel also has a restaurant to help build up energy for the next day's hike. Top of the range in the village itself is Alpenhotel Quadratscha, with doubles from $138. Hotel Post is slightly easier on the wallet, with rooms starting at $120.

For those who really want to splurge and mix with celebrities, top of the range in neighboring St. Moritz is the renowned Kempinski Grand Hotel. Rooms here are often sold out weeks in advance; rooms rates range from $200 to twice that and up.

DINING: Most of Samedan's hotels have their own restaurants and the streets of the old center are packed with places to eat and drink. There are several pizzerias like Bernina, or more traditional Swiss restaurants such as Hirschen, offering specialties like melted cheese fondue and fried potato roesti (hash browns).

THINGS TO DO: Apart from the endless hiking possibilities, villages the length of the Engadine also have access to ski areas, some of which are high enough to stay open year round. There are cycle routes crossing the flat valley bottom and windsurfing is popular on the lakes scattered around the upper end of the valley.

In St. Moritz, passengers can take trips down the world-famous mile-long Cresta bobsled run, accompanied by a driver and brakeman. Bookings on (011) (41) 81-830-0200.

OTHER INFORMATION: Samedan tourist office, http://www.samedan-tourismus.ch or (011) (41) 81-851-0060. Engadine regional, http://www.engadin-start.ch.

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