The playbook for a perfect tailgate

Southwestern-style baby back ribs
Serves 4

Most of the heavy lifting here is done at home. It's Sloan's compromise between the sort of cook-and-reheat scheme that inevitably robs meat of its flavor, and slow barbecuing until your behind is tired from sitting on your pickup bed. "Just have plenty of napkins," he warns.

1 tbsp dried thyme
1 tbsp granulated garlic
1 tbsp onion powder
1 tbsp brown sugar
1 tbsp paprika
1 tbsp chile powder
1 tsp dried rosemary
1 tsp salt
3 racks baby back ribs (about 5 pounds total)
3 cups Homemade Barbecue Sauce (see below)

At home: In a small bowl, mix together the thyme, garlic, onion powder, brown sugar, paprika, chile power, rosemary, salt and pepper. Rub the spice mixture over both sides of the ribs. Wrap in plastic and refrigerate overnight or up to 24 hours.

Preheat the over to 325 degrees F. Unwrap the ribs and place them on a baking sheet. Cover completely with aluminum foil. Bake for one hour and 10 minutes. Remove the foil and let the ribs cool. Refrigerate them, wrapped in plastic, until you are ready to pack, up to 24 hours.

Just before leaving, cut the racks into individual ribs and place them in a large, sealable container. Add one cup of the barbecue sauce and stir so all the ribs are coated.

At the tailgate: Prepare coals for a medium fire. When the coals are ready, grill the ribs for 10 minutes, until they are lightly charred and heated through, turning them several times and applying several more moppings of sauce.

Serve the ribs hot, accompanied by more sauce.

Homemade barbecue sauce
Makes 3 cups

1 medium onion, finely chopped
6 cloves garlic, finely chopped
2 cups ketchup
3/4 cup fresh orange juice
1/4 cup water
1/4 cup fresh lemon juice
2 tbsp red wine vinegar
2 tbsp tomato paste
2 tbsp honey
2 tbsp brown sugar
2 tbsp molasses
2 tbsp Worcestershire sauce
2 tbsp Dijon mustard
1 tbsp chile powder
1 tsp liquid smoke
1 tsp ground coriander
1 tsp Tabasco or other hot sauce

At home: In a heavy-bottomed saucepan, mix all the ingredients together and bring to a boil over medium heat. Reduce the heat to low and simmer for 10 minutes, stirring frequently. Let cool and refrigerate for up to one week.

From "The Tailgating Cookbook" by Bob Sloan (Chronicle Books).