Yellowstone Browns

The next day dawned cold and clear, with a light dusting of snow. The beauty of Shoshone Lake in transition from fall to winter was sublime. The lake was glassy, its mirror reflection of puffy cumulus clouds broken only by the wake of a cruising merganser. After a quick breakfast, we packed up our boats and paddled back to the channel, where we pulled ashore for more first-class fishing.

The process of approaching trout can be almost Zenlike. Chapters have been written about the best stalking techniques. Polarized sunglasses are required to cut the glare off the water and see the fish beneath the surface. Once a fish is spotted, you crouch and, with great stealth, slowly creep into position, much like a cat preparing to pounce on a mouse. Next, you must expertly cast your fly just upstream of your target, so it drifts directly in front of the trout's mouth. Then, wham! Hang on for the ride.

Dylan and Sean were in a fly fisherman's zone, casting into quarter-sized spots with laserlike precision. Both caught several big browns. Sean landed another 25-inch fish, matching Dylan's from the day before as biggest of our short trip.

With aching arms and receding daylight, we reluctantly got back in our kayaks and drifted downstream. The fishing had been incredible, and the kayaking serene. While paddling back to Lewis Lake we encountered some other fishermen pulling their canoes upriver.

"How was the fishing?" one eagerly asked.

Tom Bol

I didn't have the heart to tell him about all the trophy trout we had landed, or the 27-inch monster we saw in a deep pool. "Not too bad," I replied. "We caught a few." 

I knew his look of disappointment wouldn't last much longer.

LOGISTICS
Getting there: The quickest way to Lewis Lake is flying into Jackson Hole south of Yellowstone National Park. Many major airlines serve Jackson including Delta, Frontier and United. You can get a shuttle into town or rent a car. For more on travel and accommodations in Jackson, go to www.jacksonholetraveler.com.

Permits: You will need to get a fly fishing license and reserve a campsite on Shoshone Lake. Fishing licenses can be obtained at the Flagg Ranch entrance station on the way in.

You will need a backcountry campsite reservation to camp on Shoshone Lake. These sites can be reserved in advance by mail or in person, although in October there generally are campsites available. Go to www.nps.gov/yell/home.htm for information on camping and Yellowstone in general.

Kayak Rentals/Outfitters: Snake River Kayak and Canoe offers fully guided and outfitted trips to the Lewis Lake channel every year. They have all the gear you will need, as well as the fly fishing expertise to help you land a monster brown trout. Contact them at (800) 529-2501; www.snakeriverkayak.com.

Weather: Generally the first few weeks in October is the best time for fishing. Ideally after a cold snap but before the snow starts to accumulate. Plan on a winter camping trip.

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