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A three-day weekend in Golden Yosemite

Quiet hikes and lazy picnics are yours for the taking now

A backpacker views Half Dome, the 8,842-foot symbol of Yosemite National Park, May 30, 2004. A popular trail to the summit of Half Dome approaches from the ridgeline at top left. Cables assist hikers on the final 400-feet, over the steep section in shadow just left of the peak.
Robert F. Bukaty / AP file
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By Abigail Peterson
updated 2:51 p.m. ET Oct. 3, 2005

After the under-18 set heads back to school and the swarm of summer visitors slows, Yosemite National Park welcomes some of the most comfortable weather of the year. Aspens and cottonwoods turn from green to gold, meadows are dotted with milkweed pods spilling their silvery strands, and a peaceful splendor invites you to relax.

“Yosemite seems to take a breath in fall,” says Tom Medema, the park’s Interpretive Operations chief. “Things slow down, the weather cools—it’s almost like the park is getting ready for its own hibernation.”

Before winter comes, take a long weekend to see the best of what the park has to offer. Three days are a perfect chunk of time to explore the park’s three main areas: Tuolumne Meadows, Yosemite Valley, and Wawona. Plan to stay in the valley—it’s central to everything, and reservations are easier to come by at this time of year.

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Day 1: Friday
Spend the afternoon at a cool 8,600 feet in Tuolumne Meadows, an hour and a half north of Yosemite Valley. Tioga Road/State 120 usually closes by early November because of snow, so this month is your last chance to explore the area before spring.

Get on granite. The short climb to the top of Pothole Dome provides an ideal vantage point for ta
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Across the nation and the world, fall repaints landscapes with a palette of vivid hues.

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king in Tuolumne Meadows. From the pullout on the north side of State 120 at the western edge of the meadows, look for a winding granite path that leads first into a grove of pines and then up the gently curving rock face. The 0.5-mile trip to the top takes less than 20 minutes and is easy all the way.

River walk. The Lyell Fork of the Tuolumne River is on the other side of State 120 from the meadows. A meander along the river, really more like a gentle stream this late in the year, reveals quaking aspens and tall, golden grasses. Trails extend for more than 8 miles up the canyon; make an out-and-back hike of any distance.

Follow the sun. On the drive back to Yosemite Valley, you’ll pass several well-known landmarks, including Tenaya Lake (an easy, 2-mile out-and-back hike begins at the south end of the sandy beach and runs along the south side of the lake) and Olmsted Point, where Half Dome feels so close you can almost reach out and touch it. For dinner, the Yosemite Lodge at the Falls Food Court ($$; 209/372-1265) has burgers, pizza, and spaghetti, and it generally remains open until 7 p.m.

Day 2: Saturday
Spend today in Yosemite Valley. There’s no need for a car; rented bikes and the valley’s free shuttle will get you everywhere you need to go. Find a shuttle map in the free Yosemite Today newspaper, available at all park entrances.

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Grand hotel breakfast. The Ahwahnee dining room ($$; reservations recommended; 209/372-1489) serves the valley’s best breakfast. Afterward, stop by the concierge desk to inquire about free history tours of the hotel, usually offered at least once a day on weekends.

Famous footsteps. Reserve three days ahead for a photographer’s walk of Cooks Meadow, along the Merced River, offered through the Ansel Adams Gallery (tours 9–11 Tue, Thu, Sat; free; www.anseladams.com or 209/372-4413). Get tips on taking better pictures, and find out where Ansel Adams set up his tripod to snap some of the valley’s famous views. Or follow the path of such Yosemite heroes as Royal Robbins with a beginning rock-climbing class from the Yosemite Mountaineering School (from $117 for a 6- to 7-hour class, reservations recommended; in Curry Village; www.yosemitepark.com or 209/372-8344).

Picnic among the aspens. Sentinel Beach, just off the Valley Loop Drive at the south side of the valley, is one of the prettiest spots for a picnic and a great place for wading in the Merced River. Pick up lunch at the Village Store (209/372-1253), in the heart of Yosemite Village.


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