The perfect temperature for wine

TASTING NOTES
September is a wonderful time of year to be drinking wine: still warm enough that whites and rosés feel right, yet not so hot that hearty reds taste too heavy. A few recent picks:

Raffault 2004 Chinon rosé (Vin de Garde, $14): I've been looking all summer for pink wine from the Chinon area of France's Loire Valley, and this one is simply gorgeous. Chinon is Cabernet franc territory; the red wines can be lovely, but Chinon rosé remains a unique pleasure. The Raffault is berryish and juicy up front, with a zingy citrus note that leads to subtle mineral and herbal notes, with a refreshing finish. Silky as ghee, with enough substance to make itself heard. Lingers on its bright notes, and perfect with a light meal.

Domäne Wachau 2003 grüner veltliner Federspiel Terrassen (Vin DiVino, $10): Grüner is rapidly becoming the conversion wine for chardonnay junkies, and with good reason. This bargain pick offers sharp mineral and lemon scents, yet it's surprisingly rich in its core. Gracious and pleasing, if not profound, and a terrific demonstration of why grüner is such a perfect white wine for so many occasions. A guilt-free pour.

Chateau de Ségriès 2001 Lirac Cuvée Reservée (Kysela Père et Fils, $14):  Predominantly grenache, with a good dose of syrah, this red is robust and hearty, with brambly berry and rounded black cherry, plus black pepper, licorice and the scent of warm herbs. Chewy and yet supple, lingering after you swallow a gulp. Completely approachable, with mellow tannins that are perfectly folded in. The 2003 vintage is available now too, though it may still be a little young.

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