Autumn splendor: 5 foliage tours

By Charles Leocha

Travel columnist

updated 5:20 p.m. ET Sept. 30, 2005

The natural cycle of foliage is one of the rhythms that sustain the musical score of life. Seldom modest, trees proclaim their leafy program boldly — from their first brave buds, through pale-green youth and blossoming, on to glossy green maturity, and ending, in autumn, in a vibrant farewell trumpeted in rich crimsons, oranges, yellows, reds and golds.

New England seems to own the franchise. Pictures of its hillsides ablaze in color adorn October calendars everywhere, and Vermont and New Hampshire have successfully marketed their foliage as the most brilliant in the nation. But, in fact, nature puts on this spectacular show all across the country.

It’s all about chlorophyll, the pigment that makes leaves green. In September, October and November — as the nights grow longer and the weather cooler — chlorophyll production slows down, unmasking the colors produced by other chemicals in the plants. Gradually, each leafy tree surrenders its green mantle to the bright yellows and crimsons that signal the end of the summer and the start of leaf-peeping season.

Each broadleaf tree has its own fall colors. Maples, the most extravagantly colored of the native trees, produce brilliant crimson reds, glowing yellows and pumpkin oranges. Oaks wrap themselves in dignified russets, reds and browns. Beeches turn a light tan, dogwoods burgundy and purple. Aspens, cottonwoods, poplars, ashes and larches change from greens to golden yellows. What makes foliage watching so interesting is that each forest and woodlot has its own mix of trees, and so its own mix of colors.

Slide show Autumn’s awesome rainbow Across the nation and the world, fall repaints landscapes with a palette of vivid hues. more photos

Cold weather comes to New England and Colorado earlier than it does to California, Arkansas and Virginia, so the autumn colorfest moves from north to south beginning in late September and carrying on through mid November. Those who can’t make it to New England in early October can enjoy similar displays of colors in Pennsylvania and Virginia later in the month.

In general, colors will reach their peak in New England and Colorado in late September and early October. New York and Pennsylvania have wonderful colors for most of October. The Smokey Mountains and Arizona get their turns in late October and early November. Of course, higher elevations will color up before the valleys, because they’re cooler.

Some trees change colors on their own species-specific timetable. Oaks have colors that linger long after the maples and birches have flamed out; in fact, many don’t drop their dry, brown leaves until spring. And southern sourwoods start turning crimson while the rest of the forest is quite green. For leaf-peepers, there is a time and a place for everyone.

Here is a selection of five regions where a fall foliage trip will reward you with a vibrant encounter with nature.

New Hampshire and Vermont
Since the depth of fall colors depends on quick changes in the weather, areas like New England with its sudden cold snaps and mix of trees usually produce the most brilliant and varied colors. The White Mountain Trail, one of the most popular foliage routes in New Hampshire, runs along the Kancamagus Highway from Lincoln through North Conway, then north along U.S. Route 302 through Crawford Notch to the Mount Washington Hotel in Bretton Woods, and on to Franconia Notch. To avoid some of the crowds, many leaf-peepers head farther north and drive through Pinkham Notch, Berlin, Lancaster and Gorham.

From Bretton Woods, take the cog train up Mt. Washington for an unforgettable chug through New England’s autumn colors.

As in New Hampshire, Vermont’s prime color season falls during the first three weeks of October. At that time, state Route 100, which runs up the center of the state, is packed with tourists, as are the towns of Manchester and Dover. For a more relaxed tour, head to the Northeast Kingdom in late September and drive along the small roads north of St. Johnsbury, zigzagging north toward Burke Mountain and Newport.

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