Use prosciutto and be reminded of summer

Set the fresh ham on a large cutting board. At the widest part of the ham, where the meat is exposed, there is a small flat pelvic bone protruding. Using a sturdy boning knife, cut around this bone and remove it from the ball joint of the femur, directly underneath. Carefully sprinkle 1/2 cup of the brandy over the exposed meat, including the top pointy part of the ham, and massage it in thoroughly.

In a large bowl combine the salt and sugar. Position the rack on the tub and set the ham skin side down on the rack. Pack the salt mixture onto every place the meat is exposed, as opposed to the fat, completely covering the meat with salt. If some of the salt mixture is left, save it for later.

Once the ham is prepared, it is placed in a tub in a very cold, dry room, 38 to 42 degrees F: an unheated garage, porch, or attic in winter works well, as long as the ham is protected from animals. Check the ham each day for 3 days, repacking the salt mixture. This goes on for 6 weeks. After 6 weeks, clean the salt off of the ham and sprinkle it with the remaining 1/2 cup brandy and garlic. Cover the exposed meat with the pepper and wrap a double layer of cheesecloth around the ham. Hang the ham in a cold room. Position the fan to blow on the ham for about 6 hours a day. Check the ham once a week. After 6 months, the ham should have lost about half its original weight and be ready to eat.

In a large stainless-steel pot, warm the vegetable oil over medium heat. Add the prosciutto, garlic, beans, and chili paste, and cook, stirring, for about 5 minutes. Add the chicken stock, wine, soy sauce, vinegar, and ginger and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to low and simmer for 15 minutes.

Increase the heat to high and return to a boil. Add the cockles, cover and cook, shaking the pot, until the cockles open, about 2 minutes. Reduce the heat to medium. Using a slotted spoon, remove the cockles and divide them among 6 warm soup plates or bowls.

Whisk the butter into the sauce a tablespoon at a time. Stir in the tomato concasse and turn off the heat. Whisk in the sesame oil. Ladle the sauce on top of the cockles. Sprinkle with the scallions and serve at once.

Squeeze the juice of 3 of the blood oranges through a fine sieve into a medium stainless-steel saucepan. Use a peeler to remove the zest of 1 blood orange, avoiding the bitter white pith, and then finely chop the zest with a sharp knife. Add the zest to the juice and bring to a boil over medium heat. Cook until the liquid is reduced by half. Set aside to cool.

Section the remaining 2 oranges.

Combine 2 teaspoons salt and the pepper in a medium bowl. Add the reduced juice and the vinegar. Whisk in both olive oils and set the vinaigrette aside. The vinaigrette will keep covered in the refrigerator for up to 2 days.

In a large pot bring 2 quarts water and 1 tablespoon salt to a boil. Fill a medium bowl halfway with ice water. Add the asparagus to the pot and cook for 30 seconds. Drain the asparagus in a colander, then immediately plunge it into the ice water. Allow the asparagus to chill completely, then remove from the water and wrap in a clean kitchen towel to dry.

Toss the asparagus in a bowl with half of the vinaigrette. Arrange 2 slices of prosciutto on each of the 6 chilled plates and place 6 asparagus spears on each plate. Toss the mizuna with the remaining vinaigrette and divide among the plates. Sprinkle the plates with orange sections. Serve at once.

In a medium bowl combine the lemon juice and zest, olive oil, and garlic; season with salt and pepper to taste. The vinaigrette will keep covered in the refrigerator for up to 2 days.

Halve the fennel bulbs lengthwise and cut out the cores. Slice crosswise as thin as possible. Toss the fennel with the lemon vinaigrette to coat.

Arrange 2 slices prosciutto flat on each of 6 plates. Mound the salad on top and serve.