All’s clear: Grand Cayman

Mansions at Old Prospect Point still look like cannons were rolled up to their doors and fired; all that’s left of some small hotels and bars I knew are a few twisted lengths of rebar. Whole forests of casuarinas lay flattened. But everywhere I go I also see rebirth, and everyone who tells me a story of watching their roof blow away follows it with their plans for the future, of new tourism businesses, of the chance this has given them to redesign and remodel, and how the storm brought an island populated by a mishmash of expats, permit workers and locals together as a community.

The beach is still as stunning as ever, maybe even more so — or maybe I finally had the luxury of walking its golden sands without carrying scuba tanks. Resorts like the Westin have been almost fully booked since they reopened, and many of the guests are repeaters who have been coming for years and are thrilled to visit now when there’s only a fraction of the usual number of people on the island. The miles of beach not on the cruise-shippers’ hit lists are empty, and boats have their pick of the best dive sites. The Stingrays are still in the City, the farm is still full of turtles, Hell is still welcoming all comers, and there are more restaurants and bars open than anyone could sample in a two-month stay.

I find the perfect example of the Caymanians’ positive attitude when I stop at Reef Resort, an east-end operation painted the color of the sunrise that rises over the fringing reef just off its sandy beach. The property sustained $7 million in damage, but the local owners didn’t even wait for the insurance adjuster. They rebuilt and repaired and are going full-steam ahead with new condos, which they expect to sell out during preconstruction.

The Barefoot Man — who was the island’s favorite entertainer long before I got here — now plays exclusively at the Reef Resort’s Castro’s Hideaway, and as the resort’s general manager, Tom McCallum, and I listen to Barefoot’s latest hit, “Ivan,” I say that as far as I can see, the only concession they’ve made to the storm is the new bar we’re drinking at. It’s made of poured concrete — what looks like several tons of it. If ever another storm approaches Grand Cayman and I happen to be on the island, I just may strap myself and my bottle of rum to this bar and watch it hit.

But as far as everyone on Grand Cayman is concerned, there’s little chance of that happening. The storm of the century has come and gone. And it’s only 2005: They have a calm, clear 95 years to look forward to before they’ll have to worry about what’s lurking in the southern skies. 

Bob Friel / Caribbean Travel & Life

Where to Stay
Cobalt Coast Resort
Style: Modern diver’s lodge
Location: Boatswains Bay, Grand Cayman
Rooms: 18 oceanfront units
Amenities: Full service dive shop; snorkeling; freshwater pool; Jacuzzi
Dining: Duppies
Contact: 888-946-5656
Hurricane Update: It was fully reopened last November.

Comfort Suites & Resort Grand Cayman
Style: Family-friendly with spacious suites
Location: West Bay Road, Grand Cayman
Rooms: 108
Amenities: Pool and hot tub; water sports
Dining: Stingers poolside bar & restaurant
Contact: 800-517-4000
Hurricane Update: Three out of five floors have been restored and given a tropical makeover.  

Courtyard by Marriott Grand Cayman
Style: Stylish comfort
Location: West Bay Road, Grand Cayman
Rooms: 231
Amenities: Pool; water sports; fitness trail
Dining: Mangrove Grill; Sea Grape Café
Contact: 345-946-4433
Hurricane Update: Back in business since November 20, it’s running at full capacity.

Divi Tiara Beach Resort
Style: Dive, Dive, Dive!
Location: Cayman Brac
Rooms: 71 Guestrooms and suites
Amenities: PADI Five Star dive operation; fully equipped dive shop; freshwater pool
Dining: Poseidon Restaurant; Turtles Bar
Contact: 800-367-3484
Hurricane Update: The resort received minimal damage and is fully operational

Grand Cayman Marriott Beach Resort
Style: Beachfront tranquility
Location: Seven Mile Beach, Grand Cayman
Rooms: 307 rooms and suites
Amenities: Spa; fitness room; beachfront pool; whirlpool; water sports
Dining: The Grille and The Peninsula
Contact: 345-949-0088
Hurricane Update: A $15 million remodeling project is under way. The pool, beach, oceanfront restaurants, bars and 75 percent of the rooms opened June 1. All renovations will be done by August 1.

Hyatt Regency Grand Cayman
Style: Carefree luxury
Location: Seven Mile Beach, Grand Cayman
Rooms: 53 suites
Amenities: Two pools and a whirlpool; water sports; spa; health club; children’s program
Dining: Bamboo; Hemingways; Rum Point’s Wreck Bar
Contact: 800-55-HYATT
Hurricane Update: The resort re-opened 53 beach suites on December 15. Renovations for the main resort will be completed by February 1, 2006.

The Reef Resort
Style: Beach club with diving 
Location: East End, Grand Cayman
Rooms: 74
Amenities: Wireless Internet; concierge service; PADI 5-star dive center; tennis court; volleyball; three pools 
Dining: Castro’s Hideaway Beach Bar and Grill; Thirsty Surfer
Contact: 888-232-0541
Hurricane Update: High-speed wireless Internet across the entire grounds and a new beach bar are some of the post-Ivan upgrades.   

Southern Cross Club
Style: Diver’s paradise
Location: Little Cayman
Rooms: 7
Amenities: Scuba diving; guided fish trips
Dining: Lucky Drum 
Contact: 800-899-2582
Hurricane Update: Up and running since October, it’s still undergoing renovations and additions. The Lucky Drum restaurant boasts a new screened dining pavilion. Five beach bungalow additions are currently under construction and will be available this summer.

Sunset House
Style: Diver-friendly resort
Location: George Town, Grand Cayman
Rooms: 57
Amenities: Full-service dive shop; pool and hot tub; sea pool; photography lessons 
Dining: SeaHarvest Restaurant; My Bar
Contact: 888-854-4767
Hurricane Update: It’s re-opened with accommodations redecorated and pool retiled. A new dive shop is still under construction.

The Westin Casuarina Resort & Spa
Style: Relaxed tropical escape
Location: Seven Mile Beach, Grand Cayman
Rooms: 343
Amenities: Water sports; fitness and spa facilities; swim-up pool bar
Dining: Casa Havana; Ferdinand’s; Courtyard Café
Contact: 345-945-3800
Hurricane Update: It reopened in November.

Caribbean Travel & Life is the magazine for anyone in search of the perfect tropical getaway. Each issue presents expert insider’s advice on where to find the Caribbean’s best beaches and attractions, its finest resorts and spas, liveliest beach bars and activities, and its friendliest people.

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