Riding the rails from Singapore to Bangkok

I had delightful, but unexpected, company on my last trip. At about 5 o'clock in the afternoon, an Englishman named Sean poked his head into my compartment and suggested that we have a peg or two of his Scotch. I agreed with dispatch. He rang for the steward, who shortly appeared with glasses and a bucket of ice.

"As a yank, you surely use ice." Sean said without a trace of condescension.

"Yes," I replied, "but not the ice used on this train. I'm a little concerned about its source."

"Rubbish," he snorted. "I use ice everywhere. I use it in Dacca, Kabul, even Calcutta." Then with a flourish he removed a condom from his wallet, stuffed it with ice, closed it with a knot and tossed it into his drink. "Bob's your uncle," Sean said, raising his glass in toast.

Subsequent dinner in the dining car was marginal with food that was far from inspiring. The waiters, a nonchalant group, cleared tables by hurling debris out the open windows. My advice to travelers completing this last leg to Bangkok, is to do prudent shopping in Butterworth and eat in your compartment. Be assured, however that coffee, tea, cold drinks and even beer are available on these trains.

When we returned from dinner, I found my compartment radiant in the evening light. My bed was turned down, white sheets aglow, and a cool breeze wafted through the window. There I fell asleep. The next morning at ten we pulled into Bangkok. The train trip was over, and ready or not, I was spilled out into that merrily throbbing city of six million.

If you go: For info on the Orient Express, contact Abercrombie and Kent at (800) 323-7308. Fares for this luxury trip begin at US $2,160 Reservations may be made for the Malaysian and Thai railways at their offices in either Singapore or Bangkok or at any local travel agency. Fare for the trip is $170. Penang and Langkawi can be reached by either ferry or taxi across the bridge from Butterworth.

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