The great barbecue read-off

"Peace, Love, and Barbecue" by Mike Mills and Amy Mills Tunnicliffe (Rodale, $19.95)
The setup: Mills, a veteran pitmeister and owner of six barbecue joints in Illinois and Las Vegas,  penned this memoir/cookbook with his daughter. It divides its focus between visits to famed 'cue joints, like Gates and Sons in Kansas City, Mo., and a good mix of recipes, including the occasional divulging of a pit legend's minor secret —  and much debunking of myths.

On the menu: Big Bob Gibson's hickory-smoked chicken, Ed Mitchell's butter beans and black-eyed peas, Auchmutey family Brunswick stew.

What works: If "Peace" occasionally lacks focus, it more than compensates in detail. Mills offers an insider's take in a pleasant, conversational tone. Though the recipes are mouth-watering, his subjects share more side dishes than main courses.

Words of wisdom: "Miracle Whip is a staple in the Midwest and the South, and it gives dishes a very distinct taste. I'm not sure why it gets such a bum rap. Some of my gourmet friends swear they'd never buy it, much less use it. If you're really that concerned about what your friends will think, seems to me you might be running with the wrong crowd."

Verdict: 3 tongs.

"Mastering Barbecue," by Michael H. Stines (Ten Speed Press, $19.95)
The setup: For a man who lives on Cape Cod, Stines sure knows a lot about barbecue — though given his role as a judge for various barbecue societies, he's probably on the road quite often. This slim volume mostly covers the basics, but packs in an impressive amount of knowledge. An excellent primer for the barbecue initiate.

On the menu: Dallas brisket, barbecue duck, Waynesboro shrimp.

What works: Stines' approach is more straightforward than stylish, but he doesn't skimp on detail — deftly explaining, for instance, the difference between eastern and western North Carolina styles. His section on buying brisket is impressive.

Words of wisdom: "When picking a packaged brisket, place your hand under the center of the meat and select one that has the most natural bend. If it's tough coming out of the butcher shop, it will be tougher to make it tender during the barbecue."

Verdict: 3 tongs.

"Dr. BBQ's Big-Time Barbecue Cookbook" by Ray Lampe (St. Martin's Griffin, $16.95)
The setup: Lampe, a one-time truck driver, earned his nickname racking up awards at barbecue competitions. With his broad frame and biker beard, he telegraphs that his approach will be a pragmatic one — more concerned with results than the endless charcoal-or-wood debates. There's more than a bit of braggadocio here, as you'd expect from someone who relishes long, hot days surrounded by large men and open fires.

On the menu: Kansas City-style pork butt, Jack and Coke steak, sherry butter turkey, Thai brisket salad.

What works: Neither the writing nor food is fussy. This is a book for barbecue populists, and Lampe isn't the kind of guy to send you on a goose chase for the perfect mustard (though he does insist on turbinado sugar). He's also got a few surprises up his sleeve, like that turkey recipe, which scored him his first trophy.

Words of wisdom: "I've proposed a cookoff where we all show up in a loincloth and nothing else and see who can make a weapon, hunt a dog, dig a hole, create fire, and get it cooked first. Now that would be Traditional Barbecue. Okay, the loincloths would be cheating, but if you'd ever been to a cookoff you'd want them to be allowed, too."

Verdict: 2.5 tongs.

"The Cooks Illustrated Guide to Grilling and Barbecue" (America's Test Kitchen, $35)
The setup: Just what you'd expect from the CI posse — straightforward how-to's about anything and everything grill-related. Many entries will be familiar to owners of other books in the Test Kitchen's endless attempts at brand extension. But the advice is solid, and you can't beat those stylized line drawings.

On the menu: Charcoal-grilled rack of lamb, grilled fennel with grapefruit vinaigrette, grill-smoked pork chops.

What works: No one ever read these books for colorful turns of phrase; the tone is classic Poindexter.  But endless kitchen testing provides valuable insight. Most recipes follow the standard CI method of a basic preparation, followed by variations on the theme.

Words of wisdom: "Heat causes muscle proteins to uncoil and then rejoin in a different formation, which drives out juices in the same way that wringing removes moisture from a wet cloth. This process starts in earnest at around 140 degrees, and by the time the meat reaches 180 degrees, most of its juices have been expelled. This explains why a medium-rare steak (cooked to 130 degrees) is much juicier than a well-done steak (cooked to 160 degrees)."

Verdict: 2.5 tongs.

MSNBC.com lifestyle editor Jon Bonné isn't going to choose between beef and pork. No way.