Explore Prince Rupert

A different view of the world
The region’s original inhabitants are the Tsimshian, and one good way to learn about their culture is to take a Seashore Charters tour out to Pike Island. Here, in the lush wilderness, you’ll see an ancient village site, a recreated longhouse, and petroglyphs.

But the Tsimshian are very much a contemporary presence too. Up in the Carving Shed, which is owned by the Museum of Northern British Columbia, Luke Parnell is working on a cedar mask—and, when I ask, is willing to talk about where his inspirations come from. “They are based on myth and history,” he tells me. “But our art is constantly evolving.”

Down at the museum itself, curator Susan Marsden waits as I study a beautifully unsettling 20th-century Haida mask in the local slate known as argillite, depicting the Volcano Woman spirit. Neighbors of the Tsimshian, the Haida live on the Queen Charlotte Islands, across Hecate Strait. I ask again about the source of the images. Marsden expels a thoughtful sigh. “It can’t be articulated in just a few words,” she explains. “It is so vast, so complex, so sophisticated that it must be learned about … experienced.” She pauses. “I would like visitors to go away from the museum with a different view of the world.”

Into the wild
Finally, there is the wilderness of Prince Rupert.

As the boat inches along the boundary of the Khutzeymateen Grizzly Bear Sanctuary, Doug Davis, owner of Prince Rupert Adventure Tours, whispers into the PA system, “At 10 o’clock, you’ll see a grizzly feeding on the sedge grass.” And there she is, almost shoulder-deep in the emerald vegetation, a grand old matron of the wild in shaggy, rust-colored fur. Suddenly the sedge vibrates. Excitement ripples across the deck and binoculars sweep the beach as two cubs come into sight. Heading back to town, more wildlife: this time, whales that breach on the boat’s port side, so close we can see the barnacles on their skin.

All roads in Prince Rupert lead to the wilderness, but likely the most spectacular is the road to Terrace. The 90-mile drive follows the Skeena River east. From the wide, brackish waters of the mouth, the road cuts through the Coast Range past dozens of waterfalls and rock formations. As the drive progresses east, snowcapped peaks appear in the distance. The unmistakable redolence of conifers fills the chilly air.

At some point, before you’re ready, it’ll be time to leave Prince Rupert. You won’t have used your sunglasses, nor been without your sweater. But you’ll know what summer is all about, at least on the Northwest coast. And like the ships and railcars, the whales and bald eagles, and the Tsimshian spirits, you’ll probably be planning a return.

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