Rocked in the Cradle of the Deep

From Primitive to Pampered
Although no one in their right mind would call a luxury yacht like the Sunseeker primitive, the diving along Hamakua certainly left a trail through our psyche. And like all boat trips, it’s nice to plant your feet, once again, on the unmoving Earth. It’s even better when the Earth you tread is connected to the black sand beach of the Kona Village Resort.

Each night, as if they also recognize the resort as a haven, sea turtles pull themselves up on the sand to sleep. And if sanctuary can be measured in the ability to cast away all cares, the turtles’ slumber stands as silent testament to the purity of this place. The turtles’ dreams remain unperturbed by couples passing by on their way to watch the sun set the evening sky afire before its descent into the invisible, which happens with great flourishes and lingering encores of orange, purple and yellow.

Once darkness fell and the tiki torches turned the resort into a romantic hideaway for  couples and privacy-seeking Hollywood elite, we all retreated to our breeze-filled hales (bungalows). I wondered if they could tell by looking at us that we’d just returned from an untamed adventure — that we’d seen a part of the planet no one had ever visited.

Swaying in the hammock at my hale, it struck me just how many journeys and adventures still exist in the world, especially on this Big Island that has never failed to surprise or entice. There’s something strange and lovely and shocking all at once to realize that we’d just been to a place that has summoned  many but has seldom accepted the investigations of divers; that we’d felt both rejection and acquiescence to its singular world.

Even more surprising was the realization that a place with such an ancient and unseen pulse exists within easy reach of the pampered confines of the Kona Village Resort, on an island that never fails to exceed expectations. This is when I realized I hadn’t been bewitched after all; I’d simply been lucky enough to come in the first place.

That night, as Paul and I sat on the sand and watched the sky fill to its brim with speckles of light, he lit the flame once more.

“We could go south, next time. Stay out for a while. Really see the place.”

“South?” I said.

“Yeah,” said Paul. “Here, lemme show you on the map. It’s like the badlands. You never know what will show up.”

Must Do

If you’re tired, stressed or simply spoiled, then you’ll want to beat a path to the Spa at the Four Seasons Resort Hualalai. Get a traditional Hawaiian lomilomi massage, a sacred technique passed down through generations.

Must Dive

1) Ulua Caverns (Kohala Coast)

2) Ledges (Kohala Coast)

3) The Arch (off Kona Village Resort)

4) Manta Night Dive (Kona Coast)

5) Turtle Pinnacle (Kona Coast)

Deco Stops: Hawaii
The Big Island exists in that rarefied state of complete excess. The island contains 12 distinct climate zones, so you should never lack for anything to do, no matter what your pleasure. Start with a sensual spa treatment at one of the world’s top stops for sybarites, the Spa at the Four Seasons on the Kohala Coast. Then take in all of the Big Island in on fell swoop with Blue Hawaiian Helicopter Tours; you’ll see Kilauea Caldera, which has been flowing lava since 1983. You can drive up to the caldera at Hawaii Volcanoes National Park, too, and practically walk up to the 2,000°F molten rivers. While you’re in the area head to South Point, the southernmost point in the U.S., and see where ancient Polynesians from Tahiti first landed on Hawaii. Up the coast, stop off at the Place of Refuge; you’ll see basking sea turtles and fierce tiki statues at this sacred site. A drive up to the 13,679-foot peak of Mauna Loa will take you from the steamy coast to the frigid, snowcapped mountaintop in one day. Bring a coat. Back in Kailua-Kona, the hub of all things diving, go to Kona Coast Brewery to sample local ales and lagers. If you’re gonna shop, this is the place to do it — but if you’re into lush green and waterfalls, head to the other side of the island. A hike into Waipi’o Valley will have you feeling positively Jurassic — don’t miss the 300-foot Hi’ilawe Falls. Closer to Hilo you’ll find Kahuna Falls, Seven Sisters Falls and Akaka Falls, among others, all within easy walking distance of each other. For coffee lovers, a tour of the Kona Coffee Plantation is a must.

Destination Primer
AVERAGE WATER TEMP: 74-78°F

WHAT TO WEAR: A 3/2 with dive skin in summer or 5 mm in winter

AVERAGE VIZ: 100+ feet

WHEN TO GO: Year-round off Kona and Kohala; days, weather permitting, Sept.-Nov. off Hamakua

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