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Noon. The Enchanted Tiki Room. Opened in 1963, the Tiki Room is newly refurbished without being much changed. It still has singing mechanical birds. Why, then, is it so wonderful? Perhaps because it’s a reminder that Disneyland introduced an entire generation of Americans to the tropical and exotic. For that generation, it’s entirely possible to arrive at, say, a Costa Rican eco-resort and think, Well, it’s nice, but it’s no Tiki Room.

2 p.m. Sleeping Beauty Castle. Another autograph line: little girls having books signed by Disney Princesses—Snow White, Cinderella, and Belle. Many of the little girls are wearing newly purchased Disney princess costumes. In theory, the tiaras and pink tulle are the first steps down the slippery slope to Paris Hilton. Nevertheless, the girls are adorable.

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8 p.m. Backstage. Back among the warehouses, Steven B. Davison’s parade performers— mainly Orange County high school and college gymnasts and actors—are still working on their steps. Inside a nearby rehearsal hall, director John Addis guides the actors who’ll play Alice and the Mad Hatter.

“Excellent,” he says after Alice muses, “Curiouser and curiouser.” But the Hatter is too restrained.

“Hatter,” Addis says. “Go further. I want you mad. I want you completely out there.” Davison says, “I tell the performers, ‘We dream it up—but you’re the ones who are going to bring it to life. You become the owners of the dream.’ ”

9 p.m. Fantasyland. Maybe the secret of Disneyland’s success is that it makes everyone who comes here an owner of the dream. At night the park’s magic grows more powerful. Sleeping Beauty Castle shimmers, the Matterhorn glows. Disneyland remains crowded until late. But, inevitably, you notice that more people are streaming down Main Street than are streaming in.

Back near the Fire House, Goofy and Dale—a different Goofy and Dale, surely—are still working the crowd. But it’s late. Goofy pulls Dale offstage, but he keeps coming back for an encore, like Bruce Springsteen telling Clarence Clemons they have to do one more song. Finally a recorded voice announces that Disneyland will be closing, and, waving wild goodbyes, G. and D. disappear.

Over at Indiana Jones Adventure, the “third shift” is about to begin again. John Schrimsher’s gardeners will be starting soon. For the rest of us, it’s time to pack up the kids, take off our mouse ears, and say goodnight.

VITAL STATS

POPULATION: 21,000 cast members (employees) in Disneyland Resort

ACREAGE: 85 acres open to the public (430 acres with Disney’s California Adventure, Downtown Disney, and the three resort hotels)

FOUNDED: July 17, 1955

AVERAGE JULY DAILY ATTENDANCE (UNOFFICIAL): 26,000

TOTAL ESTIMATED ATTENDANCE SINCE 1955: 500 million

TICKET PRICE, 1955: $1 (entrance only)

TICKET PRICE, 2005: $53 (includes all rides)

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