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New Zealand: Magnificence in miniature
More visitors are drawn to South Island, with contrasting landscapes and views that greet the eye around almost every turn of the road. The mountain scenery reaches its pinnacle at the summit of Mt. Cook, which towers over 13,000 feet above the landscape. Glaciers inch their way down mountainsides, in places almost to the sea. The waters of deep fiords and lakes, the result of 500 million years of sculpting by the elements, double the beauty by reflecting their surroundings.
Alternatives for enjoying this dramatic display are as varied as the terrain itself. Rugged outdoor types may opt for activities like mountain climbing, long-distance trekking and whitewater raft trips down rushing rivers. Those who prefer more sedate encounters with nature may hike on gentle trails through terrain ranging from lush rain forests to growths of towering centuries-old trees, or climb into land and water vehicles to take in the sights as someone else drives.
Hiking is a way of life for many New Zealanders, and the selection of trails and environments seems endless. My experiences ranged from strolls of less than an hour to almost day-long explorations.
The Truman Walk, on the northwest coast of South Island, is a short trail that leads through a rainforest to cliffs overlooking the crashing Tasman Sea below.
Typical of the variety is the choice of close-by excursions available to guests of Grasmere Lodge where I spent several nights, nestled below the towering Southern Alps. They include strolls through valleys and rolling tundra, trails in subalpine forest terrain, jaunts to elevated snow fields and technical mountain climbing.
There also a wide selection of water experiences, ranging from sedate guided boat tours to gentle lake kayaking to rough-and-tumble whitewater rafting. I opted for a memorable sea kayak paddle through Milford Sound. That dramatic, 13-mile-long fiord is the best known body of water in Fiordland National Park in the southwest corner of South Island.
Our four-hour paddle covered about half that distance, with numerous stops along the way to gaze in awe at the scenery and listen to our guide describe the area's history and geology.
Sheer mountains hide their peaks in the clouds, then plunge almost vertically into the crystal-clear water. Narrow rivulets formed by melting snow high above tumble down over rocky cliff faces. A fur seal resting on a rock, disturbed by our arrival, cast what appeared to be an annoyed glance in our direction. A crested penguin, enjoying its bath in the icy water, simply ignored us.
Even before this once-in-a-lifetime scene had a chance to be permanently etched in my mind's eye, I found myself immersed in another that rivaled it in breathtaking beauty. The Southern Scenic Route, which winds along the lower end of South Island, took a place high on my "most scenic drives" list within the first few miles. Its myriad views – rolling green fields being mowed by grazing sheep, towering peaks sporting a jaunty snow cap, tiny villages, waves crashing on graggy shoreline -- prompt frequent stops to take yet another photograph.
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