Cooling off in Calgary

Meet the First Nations. The Glenbow Museum ($9.84; 130 Ninth Ave. S.E.; www.glenbow.org or 403/268-4100) is one of the best in North America. Its 20 galleries contain more than 180,000 artifacts and works of art, ranging from a Blackfoot Indian tepee to a contemporary, four-story, aluminum-and-acrylic Aurora Borealis by James Houston.

Shake it up. Calgarians have been lining up since 1962 for cheeseburgers and fresh berry milkshakes at Peters' Drive-In ($; 9 a.m.-midnight; 219 16th Ave. N.E.; 403/277-2747). Or you could dig into New York steak with "The Only" barbecue sauce at 49-year-old Hy's Steakhouse & Cocktail Bar ($$$$; lunch Mon-Fri, dinner daily, reservations recommended; 316 Fourth Ave. S.W.; 403/263-2222).

DAY 3 Sunday

In 41-year-old Heritage Park (open daily until Sep 5; $18, including rides; 1900 Heritage Dr.; www.heritagepark.ca or 403/268-8500), have a free breakfast at Gunn's 1929 Dairy Barn and ride a steam train or paddle-wheeler. Nearly 300 actors in period costumes re-create Canadians from an 1860s fur-trading fort, 1880s ranching community, and 1910s town.

World-class show jumping. Opened in 1975, Spruce Meadows (18011 Spruce Meadows Way; www.sprucemeadows.com or 403/974-4200) houses six outdoor rings and two indoor arenas that host five international show-jumping events, including the $1.5 million Masters Tournament. Its seven stables board up to 700 horses. Watch riders practice (daily; free), or catch a competition (Jun 8-12, 15-19, 29-Jul 3; $4.12).

Reach new heights. At the 600-acre Canada Olympic Park (self-guided tour $8.19, guided tour $12; 88 Canada Olympic Rd.; www.canadaolympicpark.ca or 403/247-5452), site of the 1988 Winter Olympics, take a chairlift ride ($4.09; free with tour) to the 90-meter ski jump — Calgary's highest manmade point — or luge ($4.09) down the 140-meter indoor Ice House track.

A fine farewell. Shop Eau Claire Market (200 Barclay Parade, at the end of Third St. S.W.), or stroll the nearby Bow River Promenade, a 1-mile path fringed by cottonwoods. Cross Jaipur Bridge to Prince's Island Park and the River Café ($$$$; lunch Mon-Fri, brunch Sat-Sun, dinner daily; 403/261-7670), decorated with a stone fireplace and antique fishing rods. Treat yourself to smoked Canadian fish, tea-smoked duck, and game, followed by Saskatoon berry cheesecake.

Lodging

Here are three good choices. Visit www.tourismcalgary.com for more options and other information.

Calgary Westways Guest House. The renovated 1912 Victorian features five rooms and an airport pickup in a Rolls Royce Silver Shadow. From $90 U.S. 216 25th Ave. S.W.; www.calgarywestways.com or 866/846-7038.

The Fairmont Palliser. The 1914, 405-room hotel, built by the Canadian Pacific Railway features liveried doormen, a vast marble-columned lobby, and a basement pool. The Rimrock dining room ($$$$) features Canadian cuisine. From $229 U.S. 133 Ninth Ave. S.W.; www.fairmont.com or 800/441-1414.

The Westin Calgary. Large, plush, modern hotel; convenient downtown location. From $119 U.S. 320 Fourth Ave. S.W.; www.westin.com/calgary or 800/937-8461.

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