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We’re so enamored by St. John’s beaches that it’s days before we make it to the Cinnamon Bay loop for a hike. Compared with the excitement of hermit crab races and pool volleyball at the resort, I’m afraid the boys won’t have much interest in a historic site. I’m dead wrong. They love exploring the old sugar mill ruins, and the shaded jungle trail is easy on little legs but still an adventure. Alex reads each information placard along the way, learning about the old plantation and the native plants and animals. Marlie makes up his own Wild West version as we go. “Dad, this is where the Indians slept and ... did you hear that? It’s an Indian getting ready to shoot an arrow!” Before we reach the end of the trail, the boys are already asking about our next hike.

Back at the resort, my husband and I flop on the Westin’s trademark “heavenly bed” for a little quiet time before our sunset cruise. While we float on a cloud, the boys try to decide between climbing in the giant whirlpool tub in the master suite or playing video games.

Drinks and hors d’oeuvres are served as the Adventurer leaves the Westin dock. About 20 of us are aboard the big catamaran, and though we were total strangers just a few minutes ago, we’re all soon chatting like old friends in the soft glow of the evening light.

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After his big day of swimming and hiking, Marlie lies across my lap and falls asleep to the gentle roll of the boat. He’s unusually still, even angelic. Surely he’s dreaming of his house overlooking Great Cruz Bay.

Where to Stay: St. John
Within the Virgin Islands National Park, Rosewood’s Caneel Bay Resort (340-776-6111; http://www.caneelbay.com/) borders seven secluded beaches and offers everything from Thai massages to painting lessons to water sports.

Facing Great Cruz Bay Beach, the Westin St. John Resort (800-621-1270; http://www.westinresortstjohn.com/) offers guest rooms, suites and villas. Amenities include a swimming pool and tennis courts. The resort also has an extensive kids’ club that entertains and educates through activities like sailing lessons and iguana hunts. The onsite water -sports center provides equipment for snorkeling, scuba diving and kayaking.

Caribbean Travel & Life is the magazine for anyone in search of the perfect tropical getaway. Each issue presents expert insider’s advice on where to find the Caribbean’s best beaches and attractions, its finest resorts and spas, liveliest beach bars and activities, and its friendliest people.

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