10 live-aboard dive adventures

Think live-aboard diving is nothing but eat-sleep-dive? Sure, if rock ’n’ roll is only music and a Harley is just a motorcycle. On these ten live-aboards, you eat like a king, sleep in spacious, air-conditioned comfort and dive the far reaches of our water planet as easily as falling off the dock. These mini-ships are the ultimate in diving: the most convenient, the most luxurious, the most remote and the most spectacular, all rolled into one experience. Live-aboards have converted me, and I'll bet one trip will change the way you think about diving forever.

Oh, and one other thing: Maybe you’re thinking these ultimate live-aboards are just for the five-a-day dive fanatic with five thousand dives under the weight belt and “Born to Go Deep” tattooed on a bicep. Not true. Although some destinations are more rigorous than others, divers of all kinds go on these trips, and most of them don't hit the water every time the dive bell rings. Live-aboard diving is all about the fun — dive until you’re waterlogged or work on your tan, it’s up to you.

A STYLISH EXPLORATION
British Virgin Islands — Cuan Law

The Cuan Law doesn’t look like any other live-aboard dive boat — except  her sister ship, the Lammer Law. Both of these boats represent Duncan and Annie Muirhead’s unique take on how to explore the ocean realm in style, and they succeed like no other operation. My first impression of the Cuan Law was, “Wow, that’s big!” The trimaran’s twin masts tower over a deck area the size of several tennis courts, but the clean lines and low structure give the craft a certain sleekness.

The Cuan Law’s unusual design continues belowdecks, where the cabin layout provides spacious cabins, all with outside windows and overhead deck hatches. In the center of the boat is an enormous salon and bar, comfortably furnished with real couches and easy chairs. Perhaps the most innovative feature is the way the teak aft deck is used both to suit up for diving and to sit down for dinner. In minutes the crew transforms the aft deck into a covered, open-air restaurant for each meal, which always provides a splendid view of the islands.

Diving from the Cuan Law lets you reach the more remote dive sites of the BVIs, like Santa Monica Rock, the wreck of the Chikuzen, Anegada and even Sombrero Cay — but my favorite part is the “Rhone Day.” An entire day is dedicated to diving this superb wreck, and the big advantage is hitting the water when the crowds are not there. The first Rhone dive is in the early morning, before breakfast. This is the best time to see the bow section, when it appears ghostly on the sand in the muted light with not a soul around. Two more dives during the day, timed between the shore boats, gave us time to explore the bow again and take our time on the stern. The dive not to miss, though, is the night dive on the bow section. Swimming through the dark hull was an eerie experience, and in silence I could almost hear the howling wind and frantic shouts of that fateful night in 1867 when the ship went down.

On the adventurous side, the Cuan Law sometimes includes Blond Rock on its itinerary. Sitting exposed in the middle of the channel between Salt and Dead Chest Islands, these two pinnacles attract a variety of passing critters. Expect to encounter sea turtles, barracuda and jacks. If you’re lucky, you might see the sharks that sometimes pass by to check out the selection of prey. Be sure to bring your dive light; the color is almost explosive, with cup coral lighting the undercuts and overhangs on fire. 

Slide show   A Mermaid’s Playground Presented by Sport Diver Magazine. more photos

One of the nice things about a trip to the BVIs is that the whole experience is so easy. Passages are short and generally smooth, and early each evening the Cuan Law is anchored in a protected bay so you can sleep like the proverbial rock. The dinghies “dock” in slots next to platforms on the Cuan Law’s stern, making entry and exit a breeze. A few dives, like the wreck of the Chikuzen, are out in the open, but most are in calm areas behind the islands.

MUST DO: SEARCH FOR PIRATE BOOTY

Rumors of hidden pirate treasure have been swirling around Norman Island since the 18th century. No one has found the fabled booty, but it’s sure fun to walk the island with a sharp eye out for the tell-tale glitter of a gold doubloon.

MUST DIVE

1. The RMS Rhone
2. The Chikuzen
3. Chimney
4. Carval Rock
5. Blond Rock

FOR MORE INFORMATION
The Cuan Law
284-494-2490;