Raising a glass to the justices? Not so fast…

Fred Reno, president of Benicia, Calif.-based Henry Wine Group, has targeted other restrictive statutes, like the franchise laws in many states that lock nearly all liquor manufacturers into representation by a single wholesaler.

Reno — who distributes wine in both less-restrictive states such as California and far stricter ones like Maryland — welcomes direct shipping as a way to build the overall market. But even when wineries can sell direct, Reno insists, most still rely on distributors (and are likely to in the future).

Most winery owners agree; it is too complicated and costly for even a large producer to hire its own national sales staff and then properly ship, haul and store wine to retailers and restaurants around the country. In this scenario, wholesalers — as is true in most businesses — can thrive by offering a very simply economy of scale.

Can it work? Reno points to his home state, where he and other distributors succeed despite wineries’ ability to sell directly to just about anyone.

“If you want to look at the future,” he says, “just look at California.”

TASTING NOTES
After all that legal stuff, how about some crisp white wine to clean our palates? Most people think red wine when they think of France’s Rhône valley, but whites made from native Rhône grapes can be pure pleasure when done right — clean and aromatic, they blow away most pinot grigios without being flabby or oaky.

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Here are a few picks featured at last week’s Hospice du Rhône, the annual celebration in Rhône-loving Paso Robles on California's Central Coast.

Domaine Clavel 2002 Cascaille ($12)
Made from roussanne, vermentino and grenache blanc, this Languedoc white is made entirely in stainless steel tanks, like a typical pinot grigio, and has the same freshness. There’s almost a yeasty note, followed by a fruity finish. It’s bright and acidic, perfect both as an aperitif or to pair with a light May meal.

Edmunds St. John 2004 Shell and Bone ($25)
This Berkeley, Calif.-based microwinery tends toward more traditional styles than most, and this viognier/roussanne/marsanne mix from Paso Robles is no exception. It’s got a big, ripe nose but a fresh, slim body and slightly tart notes that keep it fresh. All three of these grapes tend to be made too fat; this is a lovely example of restraint.

Tablas Creek 2003 Vermentino ($27)
The Paso Robles offshoot of France’s famous Beaucastel château has a penchant for planting more obscure grape varieties. Also known as rolle, this grape appears from the Languedoc to Liguria, forming a bright, tangy backbone for white wines. Tablas Creek’s standalone version is bright and refreshing, with tart apple and mineral notes. A true rarity among U.S. wines.

Jaboulet 2001 Châteauneuf-du-Pape Blanc “Les Cèdres” ($36)
Made from 80 percent grenache blanc, this white from the Mecca of the southern Rhône is a touch sweet, but evocative, rich and aromatic. It’s a stunning wine, set to grow with age but more than ready to enjoy now.

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