Healthy cooking with the season's best veggies

Morel, Ramp and Potato Gratin
Serves 4 to 6

5 Idaho or other russet potatoes (about 4 pounds), peeled and thinly sliced
3 cups heavy cream
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 tablespoon peanut oil
1/2 pound ramps (about 2 bunches) trimmed and white parts only sliced
12 to 15 small morels, trimmed, washed (see note about cleaning) and halved or quartered

Heat the oven to 300 degrees.  Place the potatoes in a medium saucepan and cover with the cream.  Add salt and pepper and simmer over medium heat until the potatoes are just tender, about 15 minutes.  Drain the potatoes, reserving the cream.  Return the cream to the saucepan and simmer until the cream has reduced by half.

Heat the oil in a large skillet over medium heat until it slides easily across the pan.  Add the ramps, salt, and pepper.  Cook, stirring frequently until the ramps are fragrant, about 1 minute, then add the morels.  Cook, stirring occasionally, until the morels soften, about 5 minutes.

Add the morel mixture to the cream. Spoon half the potatoes into a medium baking dish, cover with half the cream and morel mixture. Repeat, spooning in the remaining potatoes then covering with the remaining morel mixture. Bake the gratin until it is well-browned, about 35 minutes, then serve.

Sole with Morels, Ramps, and Asparagus
Serves 4

3/4 pound asparagus, trimmed and cut into 2-inch to 3-inch pieces
1 cup shelled peas
Kosher salt
1/2 pound butter, chilled and cut into pieces
1/2 pound morels, cleaned and trimmed (see note about cleaning)
Freshly ground black pepper
1/4 pound ramps, cleaned and trimmed (see note about cleaning)
1-1/2 pounds filet of sole, cut into 8 equal pieces
1 tablespoon chopped fresh chervil (or fresh tarragon)
1 tablespoon chopped fresh chives

Cook the asparagus in a pot of boiling salted water over high heat until tender but still bright green, 3 to 5 minutes. Remove the asparagus with a slotted spoon, rinse under cold water and set aside.  Cook the peas, rinse under cold water then set aside with the asparagus.

Bring about 1/2 inch of water (1/4 to 1/2 cup) to a boil in a small saucepan. Reduce the heat to medium-low.  Whisk the butter into the water one piece at a time. Add the morels a few at a time (if you add the mushrooms too quickly they will steam rather than sizzle), then reduce the heat to low.  Add salt and pepper and cook, stirring occasionally, until the morels begin to soften, 5 to 10 minutes.  Add the ramps and gently simmer until the morels are soft and the ramps tender, about 5 minutes more.

Transfer the morels, ramps, and butter sauce to a medium skillet. Add the asparagus and peas to the skillet. Salt and pepper the fish, and place it in the skillet, nestled among the vegetables. Cook at barely a simmer, basting the fish with the butter sauce, just until the fish flakes easily, about 5 minutes. Divide the ragout  and fish between 4 shallow bowls, garnish with chervil and chives and serve.

Spring Vegetable Ragout
Serves 4

3/4 cup unsalted butter, chilled and cut into pieces
1/2 pound morels, cleaned, trimmed (see note about cleaning), halved or quartered if large
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
1/4 pound ramps, cleaned and trimmed (see note about cleaning)
1 pound asparagus, trimmed and cut into 2-inch to 3-inch pieces
1 tablespoon chopped fresh chervil (or fresh tarragon)
1 tablespoon chopped fresh chives

Bring about 1/2 inch of water (1/4 to 1/2 cup) to a boil in a small saucepan. Reduce the heat to medium-low and whisk in the butter one piece at a time. Add the morels a few at a time then reduce the heat to low. Add salt and pepper and cook, stirring occasionally, until the morels begin to soften, 5 to 10 minutes. Add the ramps and continue to simmer gently until the morels are soft and the ramps tender, about 5 minutes more.

Meanwhile, cook the asparagus in a pot of boiling salted water until tender, 3 to 5 minutes. Drain the asparagus, them add them to the ragout. Add the chervil and chives and serve garnished with additional herbs if desired.

Pasta Dough
Makes 12 ounces

2 eggs, lightly beaten
1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil
1 to 2 tablespoons water
2 cups all-purpose flour
Pinch of salt

Combine the egg, olive oil and water in a small bowl and mix well.  Combine the flour and salt in a large bowl.  Make a well in the center of the flour mixture and pour in the egg mixture.  Gradually work the flour mixture into the egg mixture until the dough holds together.  Transfer the dough to a clean work surface and knead until it is smooth and elastic.  Wrap the dough in plastic, and refrigerate for at least 1 hour but not longer than 2 days.  Roll out according to the specific recipe instructions.

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