Healthy cooking with the season's best veggies

The arrival of spring means that fresh flavors are used in the kitchen.  Tom Colicchio, owner and chef of the Gramercy Tavern in New York City, was invited on the “Today” show to share this versatile menu of some of his favorite spring vegetables. Here are the recipes.

A note about cleaning
To clean thin asparagus, simply trim the dried bottoms and peel off any small leaves. For thicker stalks, hold one stalk on each end and bend, noting where it breaks naturally, then trim the rest in approximately the same place. Peel the woody stems, the way you peel a carrot.

Before washing morels, taste one first, and only wash if it tastes gritty, since washing saps them of some of their flavor. If they need it, drop the morels into a bowl of water and lift out with your hands, then blot dry on paper towels.

Cleaning a ramp is similar to cleaning a scallion. Start by peeling off the translucent outer layer. Trim the root and then cut down the leaves, leaving about 1/4 inch of green. Wash the ramps under cool, running water.

Asparagus Soup With Morel Custard
Serves 8

For the custard
2 tablespoons peanut oil
1/4 pounds morels cleaned, trimmed (see note about cleaning) and coarsely chopped
1 or 2 ramps, white parts only, cleaned
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 cup heavy cream
1 egg yolk
1 egg

For the soup
2-1/2 pounds asparagus
2 tablespoons peanut oil
2-1/4 cups chicken stock (see chicken stock recipe)
2 shallots, peeled and minced
1 small leek, white part only, finely chopped
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
1/4 pound ramps, white parts only cleaned, trimmed (see note about cleaning), and chopped
1/4 cup heavy cream
3 tablespoons mixed fresh herbs (such as chervil, chives, tarragon, and basil)

Making the custard
Heat the oven to 325 degrees and butter eight 2-ounce ramekins.  Heat the oil in a medium skillet over medium-high heat until it shimmers. Add the morels, minced ramps, and salt and pepper, and cook until the morels begin to soften and release their juices, 3 to 5 minutes.  Add the cream, bring it to a simmer, then reduce the heat to low and steep for about 10 minutes.

Strain the cream into a medium bowl; reserve the morels and ramps.  Allow the cream to cool for 5 to 10 minutes.  Beat the egg yolks and egg together, then add to the cream.  Mix the custard well, then add a pinch of salt and the reserved morels and ramps.

Divide the custard between the ramekins.  Place the ramekins in a large baking dish.  Put the baking dish on the middle rack of the oven and add enough boiling water to come about halfway up the ramekins.  Cover the baking dish with tin foil and cook until the custard is set, 20 to 25 minutes.

Making the soup
While the custard bakes, cut the asparagus spears in half.  Chop the tips and reserve, then chop the stems.  Heat 1 tablespoon of oil in a medium saucepan over medium heat until it moves easily across the pan.  Add the stems and cook, stirring occasionally, until they start to soften, 5 to 10 minutes.  Add the stock and bring it to a boil.  Reduce the heat and gently simmer until the stock tastes like asparagus, about 15 minutes.  Strain the infused stock and discard the cooked stems.

Heat the remaining tablespoonful of oil in the saucepan over medium heat.  Add the shallots,  leeks, salt, and pepper and cook (without browning), stirring frequently, for 1 to 2 minutes.  Add the asparagus tips and the ramps to the saucepan.  Cook, stirring occasionally, until the asparagus tips begin to soften, about 10 minutes.  Add the infused stock and simmer until the asparagus is soft but still bright green, about 5 minutes more. 

Puree the soup, then press it through a fine strainer.  Return the strained soup to the blender and blend until frothy (a handheld blender will also work).

Assembling the dish
Remove the custards from the oven and the ramekins from the baking dish.  Set them aside just until they are cool enough to handle.  Carefully run a knife around the outer rim of each ramekin.  Unmold the custards into 8 shallow bowls.  Ladle soup into the bowls and serve immediately garnished with fresh herbs.

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