Mom’s Day: A great time for the gift of wine

Is yours one of those Moms trapped in the merlot vortex? Fear not. Other wines offer the same mellow fruit and muted tannins. “Try  some syrah,” advises Jean Yates of Avalon Wine in Corvallis, Ore., “Some nice, fruity, plush syrah.” Australian shiraz (another word for syrah) will also do.

Far, far away: Just because you can’t celebrate with Mom in person doesn’t mean you can’t inspire some wine discovery using the same expand-your-boundaries approach.

Even if your mother lives in a state without direct shipping (like mine) you should be able to work with a local retailer to deliver her a half-case or case of affordable, $15-and-under wines that gently stretch her palate. Tell her to think of it as a wine education in a single box.

My sister and I have been trying this very tack with our parents. Last December, we sent them a grab bag of a case, choosing unusual picks while also limiting ourselves to prices matching their everyday wine budget.

And when Mom e-mails you to say how much she enjoyed the pinot gris you sent, what could make a wine-loving son more proud? Definitely beats a boring bunch of flowers.

TASTING NOTES: Spring pinot noir
Mother’s Day is the perfect time to discover the subtle joys of pinot. So is spring, when fresh, subtle flavors like lamb, rosemary and morel mushrooms appear on the table again.  Spring menus are simply made for this grape.

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Finding good pinot, though, is a tricky matter; too many are imbalanced or too heavy in their fruit, a result of trying to make pinot bigger and lusher than it should be. California, especially, can be guilty of this. More than a few duds appeared during our tasting.

It’s not unusual to fork over $25 or more for decent pinot, but here’s a few picks $20 and under:

Scott Paul 2003 Cuvee Martha Pirrie Willamette Valley ($20)
The name’s a tribute from winemaker Scott Paul Wright to his daughter. Includes classic bright cherry, but the complex earthy tones underscore that this is serious wine. An extraordinary display of Oregon’s potential for the price, it well displays Wright’s pinot talents.

Morgan 2003 Twelve Clones Santa Lucia Highlands ($20)
A good example of the big California style kept from going overboard. Young, opulent strawberry and blackberry, with a dry earthy note. Good balance, with fine tannins and a joyous finish. More modest in the mouth than its terroir would indicate.

Nobilo 2003 Icon Series Marlborough ($20, International Cellars)
A pretty, affordable intro to New Zealand pinot. Cherry with blue plum. A bit pungent, with some pebbly earth notes and warm vanilla to offset it. Tart but balanced, with an earthy middle and a supple, fruity finish.

Evesham Wood 2003 La Grive Bleue Willamette Valley ($18)
Almost candyish when you approach it, with wild strawberries and black cherry in the mix, plus vanilla and hints of moist, foresty earth. A touch pungent, but self-assured and elegant, with a sweet finish. Organic grapes.

Martin Ray 2003 Angeline Santa Barbara County ($10)
This second label from a respected California name is all about the fruit — bright red cherry and a sweet touch of mint. Light, tart and balanced. A lingering finish evokes a wine well beyond its astonishingly good price. Not profound, but a happy puppy of a pinot.

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