The most expensive, exclusive cosmetics

“We age by slow cell renewal and also by exposure to toxins, so I think an antioxidant of any kind can help the skin. But it has to be bioengineered or purified in a scientific way so you know exactly what the molecule is,” says Dr. Brown. “Many of these products, they'll take drippings from a bamboo sprout or whatever — I just think that's a little voodoo,” he adds.

“Toxic skin has many signs, including congested pores, pigmentation irregularities, wrinkles, accumulated surface grime and a sallow, gray and ashy withered skin,” explains Dr. Howard Murad, dermatologist, founder and chief executive of Los Angeles-based Murad Inc. Murad's CitySkin Detox Treatment, which sells for $125 per ounce, contains glycolic acid and a host of antioxidants — all of which are said to neutralize the environmental toxins and pollutants that bombard the skin daily and encourage collagen accumulation and a proliferation of new cells.

Celebrities like Madonna, Liv Tyler and Susan Sarandon swear by Tracie Martyn's products — and her $460 Resculpting Facial. Offered only in Martyn's inconspicuous Fifth Avenue atelier in New York City, this facial involves the use of a special device that delivers electrical currents. The currents cause temporary muscle shortening, and have the effect of lifting and tightening the skin. Compared with many of the products on our list, Martyn's Firming Serum is a relative bargain at $175 per ounce. The plant-based serum has green papaya extract, Chilean evergreen, extracts of red wine and several epidermal growth factors.

According to Dr. Nicholas Perricone, inflammation at the cellular level is the single most powerful cause of the signs of aging. His pricey skincare line, N.V. Perricone M.D., based in Meriden, Conn., uses peptides — compounds consisting of two or more amino acids (the building blocks of proteins) chained together by what is called a peptide bond — and neuropeptides, which are peptides released by brain cells as intercellular messengers.

“While manipulating the neuropeptides, neurotransmitters and hormones that are in the brain to help create younger, more beautiful skin and slow the aging process might seem more at home in a Michael Crichton or Robin Cook novel,” Dr. Perricone says. “Believe me when I tell you that it is not only possible, but is in fact the new reality.”

Serums or moisturizers are typically the most expensive products within a skincare line, given their high concentration of costly ingredients. To maximize the age-defying effect that many of the products on our list are purported to have, experts recommend that you use a good facial cleanser, exfoliating scrub and mask, such as the Soy Face Cleanser, Honey Face Scrub and Umbrian Clay Mask from Boston-based beauty company Fresh, to help get rid of dead skin cells and keep pores clean. Their products, many of which sell for between $30 and $60, are cheap compared with most of the products on our list.

In the battle against sagging and wrinkling, the right creams and lotions are good but alone they aren't enough. Along with avoiding exposure to the sun, controlling diet and stress are crucial in decelerating the aging process. Foods that create a rapid rise in blood sugar, such as breads, pastries and chips, result in a burst of inflammatory chemicals that spread throughout our bodies. Stress triggers the release of the hormone cortisol, which elevates our blood sugar, and triggers the release of the same collagen-busting inflammatory chemicals that are generated by a diet high in refined carbohydrates. “This inflammation,” Dr. Perricone says, “produces enzymes that break down collagen, resulting in wrinkles.”

The big question is “Do these products work?” Many of the products on our list have been shown in clinical studies to do everything from minimizing lines and improving skin tone to increasing skin thickness. Instruments like cutometers, designed to measure the vertical deformation of the surface of the skin as it is pulled away by vacuum suction, and corneometers, which measure changes in the hydration of the skin, are among the tools used in these studies. However, if these studies were repeated using, say, olive oil, or even a generic lotion of any kind, it is possible that the results would be the same.

The point is, of course, that no matter how much money one spends, the aging process cannot be stopped. But, as many doctors and skincare companies promise, if your bank account is large enough, it may be delayed for a little while.

MORE FROM FORBES

Forbes Section Front

Where home prices may actually ... rise? The world’s most powerful women Billionaires for the next generation The best U.S. cities for earning a living The biggest losers in the Beijing Games The least-expensive cars to drive Best places to raise a family in the U.S. NYC tops list of America’s most expensive cities When to tell the boss that you are pregnant Well, so much for a future of $200 oil Forbes Section Front