A FEAST FOR THE SENSES

Grenada
It’s best to approach Grenada by sailboat, with the wind washing over your bow. Even before you see the lush green island, subtle and piquant hints of its presence greet you — aromas of nutmeg, cinnamon, ginger and cloves waft in, teasing you with their ephemeral touch. By the time you’re within site of the shore, the fragrance has become a full-on bouquet. Flowering trees punctuate the green canopy with fiery strokes of orange, red and white. Waterfalls and rivers pour through the shadowy rainforest, past wild cocoa trees and breadfruit, orchids and Caribbean parrots. The vibrant town of St. George possesses all the energy of a non-stop Carnival. The markets and streets seem to vibrate with the great mix of cultures upon which this island has grown.

The seascapes of Boss Reef and the area off the uninhabited Isle de Rhonde, and the diving off Carriacou (both just north of the mainland of Grenada), feature reefs as lush as the landscape. Especially spectacular is a site called Sisters Rocks, near Isle de Rhonde, where you descend through the turmoil of the surface into an idyllic and unspoiled forest of black coral trees.

I’ve been thoroughly distracted by Grenada’s thriving reefs in the past, but right off the lee side of the island awaits a secret haven of wrecks. On this trip we decided to focus on the numerous interesting wrecks, and we felt that a little diver self-indulgence was in order. Peter Seupel, owner of PADI 5-star Gold Palm Aquanauts Diving, was more than happy to assist us in our artificial-reef immersion.

Like most wreck treks here, we began with a visit to a member of the Caribbean’s wreck royalty, the massive Bianca C. Frequently called the Titanic of the Caribbean, a fire in 1949 caused this 600-foot cruise ship to sink in 165 feet of water. Be sure to get a PADI advanced certification before exploring this behemoth. I’ve dived the Bianca C when the current shortened the dive to about 5 minutes at depth, and I’ve also seen the massive structure in serenely still water. Most dives are somewhere in between, with viz usually in the 60- to 80-foot range.

Peter is the king of the Bianca C and can read the water like no one else. We descended through schools of barracuda and jacks swirling around the mast. Moving over the deck we came to the pool, amidships. Like those before us — and those who’ll come after — we “swam a lap” and “dived” off the side into the deep end. Too soon on this wreck we were out of time.

One of my favorite wrecks was the San Juan. This 80-foot fishing vessel, which sits in the lonely middle of a plateau, probably attracts more marine life now than it did when it plied its trade. And for some reason, nurse sharks love it here. They all seemed massive, some with heads three feet across, and they were lying on one another like sunning sea lions.

Other wrecks on the path included Grenada’s newest wreck, the Shakem, which has an open bridge, cabins, galleys and hallways to explore, plus a wonderfully photogenic anchor and chain. The Quarter Wreck’s propeller and wheelhouse harbored some interesting critters and a bunch of shy squirrelfish, and there’s a nice sloping reef nearby.

For our final wreck, Peter took us on another advanced dive, to the Navy minesweeper King Mitch. Four miles out into the ocean, this wreck attracts pelagics by the dozen: spotted eagle rays, ancient mariner-sized sea turtles and a Nemo nightmare number of barracudas.

Wrecks or reefs, slippery waterfalls or a quiet pool in the rainforest, Grenada is ruled by sensual aromas and visions.

Must Do: Dive In
Nothing quite says “tropical getaway” like a swim in a natural pool beneath a waterfall in the jungle. If you’re lucky, a man who goes by the name “Super Splash” will be there: For a dollar, he’ll high-dive into the pool.

Must Dives:
The Bianca C (PADI Advanced)
The Shakem
The San Juan (PADI Advanced)
Sisters Rock
Frigate Rock

FOR MORE INFO:

Aquanauts
PADI 5-star Gold Palm at three locations (Spice Islands Beach Resort, True Blue Bay Resort, Grand Beach Resort), nitrox, full retail shop, digital photo studio, camera, scooter and SCUBAPRO gear rental, watersports, classroom.

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