IN THE FLOW

Tobago
The world’s oldest protected rainforest exists on Tobago: The aptly named Tobago Forest Reserve was first designated for protected status in 1776.  A haven for wildlife, the relatively small forest hosts a formidable variety of bird life, more than 100 species of butterflies, two dozen species of nonpoisonous snakes and more than a dozen species of bats — if it flies in the Caribbean, it probably resides here.

But other than the occasional butterfly that lands on my face, and despite my guide resolutely telling me there’s a two-headed golden specked something sitting right on that branch in front of me, it turned out I simply don’t have an eye for birds. We also searched everywhere for Tobago’s official bird, the rufous-vented chachalaca. But as much as I loved asking, “Any rufous-vented chachalaca?” none appeared. Although the reserve was amply rewarding on the primitive scale, I thought I’d better relegate myself to something a little more in line with my uncanny powers of observation: a great big waterfall.

I met my next guide and, inevitably, he started in with all the fauna I still couldn’t see. Sure enough, my mind wondered off, latching onto the more obvious.

“Is it hot, or what?” I mused.          

After passing a massive stand of bamboo, we arrived at Argyll Falls. Its deep pool looked like nirvana in the heat and humidity, and above it the falls slipped over the dark rocks in wispy white ribbons.

Later that night, I got to sit on the sand and watch a rare leatherback turtle painstakingly pull itself from the water and deposit its eggs along Tobago’s north shore. It was truly an ordeal for the turtle, but it was an extraordinary sight. As a diver, though, I knew I’d eventually make my way back to salt water.

The next day I took my game to the sea. Diving in Tobago is courtesy of the Guyana Current, which provides both nutrients and transportation. As a person whose tendencies lean toward apathy, I like nothing better than drift diving — but on the drift-diving scale, Tobago’s dives are generally the “Mr. Toad’s Wild Ride” variety rather than a gentle trip.

The nutrient-rich current encourages marine overeating on a massive scale. Brain corals are literally as big as VW Beetles, barrel sponges grow to the size of dining-room tables, and even sea fans and rope sponges can be impressive. The buffet-filled current adds to an already impressive food chain, bringing in pelagics, including manta rays. It was impossible to miss the tarpon and barracuda that thrive here. Big sponges get twisted and shaped by the currents into bizarre, Dali-esque structures.

At our first site, Sail Rock, we got a little pick-me-up from the current. Once in my comfort zone, I track down the Caribbean’s only hawkfish, the redspotted hawkfish, in a crevice. Schooling jacks moved overhead, and the brain corals looked downright intimidating. Black coral trees of red and yellow clung to every surface, with angelfish and lots of little critters in between.

During the week we took on the archway at London Bridge, toured the wondrous sponge formations at Japanese Gardens, and even caught a couple of manta rays in the blue water off Little Tobago Island. At Kelliston Drain, we hovered in awe at what is probably the largest brain coral in the Caribbean, at least 20 feet across.

Seemingly designed around the idea that every inch of land and water be packed with life, Tobago is a singular eco-escape. If you can’t see what the guide sees, then you can always do what the people of this island nation do: Go with the flow.

Must Do: Rufous-vented chachalaca
Tobago’s national bird not only has a fun name, it also has a unique call. Look for it in the Tobago Forest Reserve.

Must Dives:
Buccoo Reef
Angel Reef
Flying Reef
Little Tobago Island
Kelliston Drain
www.tobagoscubadiving.com

MORE FROM SUMMER TRAVEL

Summer Travel Section Front

Museum Day showcases culture at no cost Travel’s inconvenient convenience Get your motor running Top 10 national park lodges FirstPerson: Readers share their summer fun Getting through the dog days of summer Summer fun on the slopes Rock out at the world’s coolest music festivals Discover the granddaddy of scenic road trips World's sexiest beaches Summer Travel Section Front   Add Summer Travel headlines to your news reader: