Flagships of the Caribbean

S.V. POLYNESIA
I’m caught in a fury of movement, surrounded by flying arms, kicking legs and spastic torsos. An ancient Roman, toga and all, falls to the floor next to me, convulsing like a sprayed bug while several pirates, a princess and a guy with a toilet seat around his neck who claims to be the “life of the potty” all cheer him on. The winner of this week’s “Miss Windjammer” pageant — still dressed for the swimsuit competition in a daring two-piece — is across the bar, blowing kisses through his bristly mustache and caressing his thick chest hair. The runners-up, also in drag, ignore the mascara mingled with sweat streaming down their faces as they, too, rush to join the party.

I’ve only been on Windjammer’s S. V. Polynesia for three days, and I’m already exhausted from the fun. I didn’t know a soul when I walked up the gangplank, but once I kicked off my shoes and showed up on deck, I met all 100 passengers — many families, couples and groups of friends — aboard this floating beach bar. There are no casinos, shows or gyms; not even a pool. We entertain ourselves, and that’s the best part. With the adult scavenger hunt, theme costume nights and dance-crazed clientele, there isn’t a chance of being bored aboard this boutique cruise liner.

There are many differences between a Windjammer and a big-boat cruise. The most noticeable is that Casey, our barefoot captain, and the rest of the crew don’t hide away in their quarters at night — they’re dancing and partying alongside us. And when we anchor off St. Maarten, the passengers are encouraged to walk the plank. Try doing that from a 100-foot-high megaship.

At 5:30 a.m., I’m “knocked up” by the crew. Not what you think: It’s the

S. V. Polynesia’s morning wakeup call for anyone who wants to help actually sail the ship. I stumble out onto deck. Several passengers who’ve taken advantage of the balmy Caribbean weather and slept under the stars lie on mats near the rail. Now the bleary-eyed sailors gather, mimosas in hand, for another chance to learn some basic seamanship and witness the inspiring sight of the four enormous sails rising into the morning sky.

As dawn breaks over the bow, “Amazing Grace” begins to play through the deck speakers, a Windjammer tradition. Passengers and crew together haul the white sheets up the towering masts. The sails first flutter, then catch both the wind and the golden sunlight. The S. V. Polynesia gains speed, dipping into gentle seas as she pursues a patch of land on the horizon. It’s so peaceful up on the bow that I let the slow sway of the ship rock me to sleep. Tonight is the pajama party — I’m going to need my strength.

— Zach Stovall 

The S. V. Polynesia is one of five Windjammer Barefoot Cruises that sail the Caribbean year-round. For more information, call 800-327-2601 or visit www.windjammer.com.

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