Beach-lover’s guide to St. Martin

By Zach Stovall

updated 12:55 p.m. ET July 18, 2005

Whether you’re looking for a chi-chi beachside bistro or a secluded picnic spot, an adrenaline kick or a sexy place in the sun, you can find it on the beach in French St. Martin. And it’s best to take a when-in-Rome attitude during your stay, as the locals really know how to enjoy the good things in life: windsurfing and swimming in the morning; leisurely, wine-enhanced lunches within sight of the sea; siestas on the sand in the soft late-afternoon sun; gourmet dinners under starlit skies.

We’ve found more than a dozen beaches that any Caribbean connoisseur would want to visit on a complete Tour de French-side beaches. Or, in keeping with the easygoing ambience, you can simply use the following guide to pick the one beach that matches your mood, then pack a trashy existentialist novel and two bathing suits — a stylish number for posing among the people-watchers, and something baggy that will still be comfortable after you discover how great the food is. Either way, vive la plage!

Lowlands (Terres Basses)

The westernmost part of St. Martin, a dollop of land that seems barely tethered to the island, features three secluded beaches dotted with million-dollar villas.

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Facing southwest and stretching more than a mile from end to end is aptly named Baie Longue (Long Bay). However, only the generous section of beach near the luxurious La Samanna offers sand down to the waterline. On the rest, the ocean meets a colorful strip of limestone ironshore.

The surf often kicks up in September and stays rough through November or December, making for dangerous swimming, but the entire beach is always great for strolling, golden sunset views and shell collecting.

Moving west, you reach Pointe du Canonnier at the very tip of the island. Around the point, Baie aux Prunes (Plum Bay) unfurls a sea grape-lined ribbon of paper-white sand. Dive into the clear water at its north end for superb snorkeling and swimming, and claim a spot for what is, hands down, the best beach for a romantic sunset.

Facing north and bordered by towering cliffs on each end, Baie Rouge’s (Red Bay) long arc of beige sand and calm blue water is the most popular of the Lowland beaches. Snorkel through the rock arch on the east side, called David’s Grotto, and you’ll find a hidden nook of sand.

Where to Stay: Aside from private villas, the only rooms out here are at the four-star La Samanna ($425 to $2,950*; 800-854-2252; www.lasamanna.com), which has a commanding view from atop Baie Longue’s east cliff. Lounges and water-sports equipment are for guests only, but the beach is open to all.

Where to Play: For the past 14 years, Ray, of Chez Raymond ($**; no phone), has been dishing up local favorites like shrimp stew from his beach shack on Baie Rouge. Drink two of his “Raymond Specials,” a lethal mix of six rums and fresh fruit juices, and your visit will be a little less memorable — or, rather, you’ll remember less of it. You can jam to live reggae with Ray and crew on weekends.

Hot Stuff: Road signs lead to Baie Longue and Baie aux Prunes; park on the unmarked sandy pull-offs and follow the footpaths between fences. Shell collecting is best near Pointe du Canonnier. Happy hour at Chez Raymond starts when the conch shell blows, so listen up.

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