An exciting, exotic white from southern France

There is no doubt that Picpoul de Pinet is going to elicit its share of quizzical looks when offered up by the glass or suggested as a potential bottle to bring home to enjoy with dinner tonight.  But do not fear the unfamiliar, for this somewhat obscure and seductive white is a real find and a genuine value.

Picpoul de Pinet is also unusual in that it is both the name of the grape and a sub-appellation of the Coteaux du Languedoc in the south of France. In other words, there is a little “Picpoul de Pinet” area, not far from the Mediterranean Sea, that you will find on wine maps. You will also see the name on the label, which, for one thing, will make a bottle of the wine easier to spot, though you may still have to do some hunting for it.

I am going to mention a specific wine, but my sense is that production by individual growers is limited, as is distribution, so the point is to find an example of the wine in your area to experience this unique grape.

Polaner Selections

As an aperitif the other night, I opened a bottle of the 2002 Domaine Lou Peyrilhe, which was $11, and poured it for some friends. All of us found it attractive and different. I have read several descriptions of the grape that emphasized a lemon quality, but I found a lot more going on here — melon, apple, some herbal notes, followed by vanilla and a nut component, perhaps almonds or walnuts, as it slowly receded in the mouth.  There was a strong mineral presence as well. We all agreed that this would be a perfect wine with seared scallops, or with flounder or sole fillets, perhaps sautéed or broiled with fennel seeds.

In the 2003 vintage, the same wine is bottled under a different label and name, Domaine Gaujal de Saint Bon “Cuvée des Dames.”  The “dames” are the mother-daughter team of Simone and Virginie Gaujal, who preside over the operation.  With a new importer, Polaner Selections, which buys directly from the domaine, this estate-bottled wine is even more of a bargain at $8 or $9.  The ‘03 announces itself with more citrus, which may be a function of its youth, but then the same set of interesting tastes emerges.

Polaner Selections (914-244-0404) can direct you to retailers that will ship the ‘03. This wine is a hit and another testament to the quality and value that you can find by straying slightly off the well-known wine track. I’m sure there are many more to be uncovered in the Languedoc.

Edward Deitch's wine column appears Thursdays. Write to him at .

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