A refreshing, original white from southern Italy

Just below the surface of the wine landscape, there are all kinds of interesting and original things to unearth.  On the shelves, they are often hidden from plain sight and don’t get much attention or promotion.  But finding them only takes a little more time and a desire to go beyond the familiar and the comfortable. The results can be exciting and delicious.

I made one of these discoveries the other day with a white wine from Italy, the 2002 Falanghina del Taburno from the Ocone winery in Campania in the south.  Now, if it’s a big, buttery Chardonnay that you crave, this wine, with it’s lean, crisp, mineral-driven personality, is not for you. They don’t make wines like that in Campania. In fact, you won’t find much Chardonnay, Merlot or other familiar wines in these parts.

Campania’s signature and charm lie in the distinctions of its ancient, indigenous grapes, which trace their origins, in many cases, to the Greeks who brought them to Italy thousands of years ago. Aglianico is the region’s leading red variety and is considered the most substantial and important red in the south. Falanghina is one of a number of whites, which include Greco, the basis of the well-known Greco di Tufo and an obvious reflection of its Greek roots.

Vin Divino

The Taburno appellation refers to wines made in the hillsides of  Mount Taburno, 50 miles or so inland from Naples in the middle of Campania. Volcanic soils produce the wine’s characteristic mineral qualities, both in the aroma and tastes, which also include melon and pear, hints of grapefruit, lime, green pepper and herbs.  Add to that a refreshing acidity and a long finish and you’ve got a complex and sophisticated wine produced without fermentation or aging in oak.

I enjoyed sipping it on its own and with a simple appetizer of seasoned baked clams. It will also match well with fish, herbed chicken and vegetable dishes. Before I looked back at my notes, I thought I paid $14-15 for it.  It was just $12, a real bargain for such a well-made and unique wine.

The wines of Campania are enjoying something of a renaissance these days, which is good news for those of us who appreciate honest and original wines, even if we have to dig a little deeper to find them.

Edward Deitch's wine column appears Thursdays. Write to him at .

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