Crisp and simple, the perfect summer white

I am taking a deep breath after the long Independence Day weekend with all the dinners, the parties, the parade and, for me, of course, the built-in opportunities to taste new wines. In our local parade, the kids walked away with the prize for “most red, white and blue” float; as for the best wine of the weekend, my vote goes to something simple, delicious and “green” that I intend to have on hand for the rest of the summer.

Vinho Verde, or green wine, “is the classical white wine of Portugal,” as the label on the back of the 2003 Arca Nova puts it. Made in the northernmost province of Minho, it is called green because it is fresh, light and meant to be drunk young.

A number of friends found it immediately appealing with its crisp and fruity character; indeed, Vinho Verde might be thought of as the ultimate quaffing or picnic wine — relatively low in alcohol (this one is 10 percent), and often irresistibly low priced. The Arca Nova was just $6 on sale at Chambers Street Wines in New York but is an excellent value at the regular $7 or so.

Frontier Wine Imports

Estate bottled by Quinta das Arcas Sociedade Agricola, a small, family-owned winery run by Esteves Monteiroeit, the Arca Nova is made from three local grapes — Loureiro, Trajadura and Pedernão.  Unlike most examples of Vinho Verde it is vintage dated (often several vintages are blended).

You’ll notice the slightest effervescence, which is typical of Vinho Verde and preserves its freshness. Without it the wines are flat.  Tastes in the Arca Nova include apple, pear, lemon and lime. It was great on its own and will go well with simply prepared fish, shellfish and chicken. I liked it quite cold.

It should be widely available but if you have trouble finding it the importer is Frontier Wine Imports of Dover, N.J. Alternatively, try another Vinho Verde or two from your local wine store and decide on one that you like. But don’t think too hard about it.  Vinho Verde is for easy summer drinking.

Edward Deitch's wine column appears Thursdays. Write to him at .

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