Iraqis don’t jog or spin, but fitness clubs are in

updated 7:28 p.m. ET May 19, 2009

BAGHDAD - Across a mirrored room from stationary bikes and an occasional treadmill, men in tank tops knock back protein shakes and pump iron to loud hip hop.

It's a common scene in America — and the latest craze in Baghdad.

In a city of few diversions and long cut off from the outside world, the boom in health clubs represents another sign that Iraq is slowly emerging from decades of dictatorship and war.

At least 300 gyms and fitness centers are believed to be operating in Baghdad, compared with about 30 before the 2003 U.S.-led invasion, according to people who work in the industry.

The invasion toppled Saddam Hussein and opened Iraq to the world after a quarter of a century of political and cultural isolation. With that exposure came the Internet, satellite TV, cell phones, trendy tattoos, imported consumer goods and a desire to look like a different type of strongman: Arnold Schwarzenegger in his prime.

"The arrival of satellite television in Iraq opened our eyes to many things, including the need to be fit," Haidar Mouwaffak, a 28-year-old auto parts salesman, said between reps at the Hummer Gym in Karradah, a central district that has become Baghdad's trend setter neighborhood.

"I want to look good, be physically strong and live in style," Mouwaffak said.

The popularity of health clubs reflects slowly changing attitudes in a country where healthy living has never been a priority.

Taking up smoking is virtually a rite of passage for many young men. The meat-based Iraqi diet is rich in saturated fat, and huge bellies on men as young as 20 are not uncommon.

Most gyms for men only
Although young Iraqi males play plenty of soccer, the solitary pursuit of fitness is so far an indoors-only affair.

Iraqis don't jog.

Nor do they bike.

Most Baghdad gyms are for men only, although some have designated women-only hours.

And at least for men, it's the macho stuff, mostly.

There's a much longer wait at peak hours for the weight racks than for the cardio equipment. Care to enroll in a spinning, yoga or aerobic dance class? Consider moving to neighboring Jordan.

One gym owner even bemoans what he says is the wide use of muscle growth hormones and steroids smuggled from Iran.

Body building had a following in Iraq for years, but it was mostly practiced in hot, smelly rooms with dim lighting and little ventilation.

Loud music and mirrors
The new gyms are very different, with nonstop loud music, mirrors covering most of the walls and supplementary protein formulas for sale.

Working out has become one of the few diversions available to young Iraqis. Baghdad has no functioning cinemas or discos and no Western-style cafes where men and women can meet or surf the Web over a cappuccino.

Stage productions are rare and mostly restricted to matinees.

"Where else would the young people go?" said Ahmed Sami, manager of the Dragon Gym in Karradah. "They come here, work out and go home to eat dinner and sleep."

MORE FROM MIDEAST & N. AFRICA

Mideast & N. Africa Section Front

Ahmadinejad: Iran will further enrich uranium Lebanese Cabinet lets Hezbollah keep its weapons Iran whistleblower silenced by deadly salad Israeli police arrest settler leader in West Bank Iranian sect head seeks asylum for beliefs U.K.: Iran confirms release of 5 British sailors Newsweek: Dubai is Persian Gulf's Lehman Bros. NYT: With Iraq foothold, oil giants eye future Dubai debt plan fails to soothe Gulf markets Mideast & N. Africa Section Front   Add Mideast & N. Africa headlines to your news reader: