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If my mother did not impart to me an understanding of how to play games when it comes to love, she at least sent me into the world with a clear knowledge of how to make a simple tomato sauce. The foods I had seen her prepare countless times were those I made for Kit in the early days of our relationship. Penne with tomato sauce and basil was a typical first course for a Melucci weeknight supper; my mother would always hide a few slices of fried eggplant at the bottom of each bowl as a tasty surprise. The pasta would be followed by breaded veal or chicken cutlets sautéed in olive oil and butter, accompanied by lemon wedges; there was always a salad of romaine lettuce garnished with slices of red onion and chunks of orange. This was the first meal I made on my own. I shared it with Kit.
Makes 2 servings
INGREDIENTS
Run the tomatoes through a food mill or puree them with an immersion blender (I do the latter), chop them, or just break them up with your hands. Heat the olive oil in a skillet over medium heat, then add the garlic (or onions) along with the red pepper flakes and 1 whole basil leaf.
Lower heat (you do not want your base to brown) and sauté until the garlic is lightly golden (or the onions are translucent), 2 to 3 minutes.
Add the tomatoes and raise the heat back to medium; when the sauce begins to simmer, add the sugar, wine, and salt.
After about 5 minutes, check to see if it needs more salt; if it tastes acidic, add another pinch or two of sugar. Reduce the heat to low and taste after about 15 minutes. When all the flavors are nicely blended, it’s done.
Place a large, covered pot filled with water over high heat. When the water has reached a vigorous boil, add a generous dose of salt (salty water is essential to flavorful pasta; it should have the aroma of the Mediterranean). Add the pasta and let the water return to a boil (covering the pot for those few early moments helps; just remember to remove the cover as soon as the water is boiling again), then give the pot a few good stirs. Continue to cook, stirring occasionally, until the pasta is still fi rm to the bite but no longer chalky (anywhere from 8 to 12 minutes depending on the pasta shape you’re using). You should taste it after about 8 minutes to see where it is. You can’t time pasta; you can know it’s done only by tasting it.
When the pasta is cooked, drain it and put it back in the pot you cooked it in. Then add a ladleful of the sauce, a tiny splash of olive oil, and a few basil leaves torn with your hands. Garnish the top of each dish with a spoonful of sauce and a few more pieces of basil. Pass the grated cheese at the table.
MANAGE YOUR RECIPES
Makes 2 servings INGREDIENTS Put the eggs in a wide-rimmed bowl and spread the seasoned bread crumbs on a plate. Coat the meat in the eggs and then the bread crumbs. In a skillet, heat the oil and butter at medium-high and fry the cutlets until they are cooked through and browned on both sides (about 4 minutes on each side, depending on thickness). You’ll probably need to do this in two batches; refresh the fat in the pan if necessary. Remove the cutlets to a plate lined with two paper towels until ready to serve. Present them with lemon slices to squeeze on top.MANAGE YOUR RECIPES
Makes 4 servings INGREDIENTS Wash and dry a head of romaine lettuce and cut the leaves crosswise into 1-inch pieces. Put them in a bowl with room enough for tossing and add the onion. Remove the stem ends of the oranges, then take off the skins with a paring knife. Cut into slices 1/4 inch thick and then cut the slices into quarters, removing any seeds and startlingly obvious white pith. Dress and toss the salad with olive oil, red wine vinegar, a little salt, and freshly ground pepper.MANAGE YOUR RECIPES
We ate sitting on the floor, our dishes perched on a square ottoman that came from my family’s house. We were saving up for a table, but, priorities ever in place, we dropped $3 on a bottle of Concha y Toro, purchased at our local liquor store, where the clerk and his merchandise stood behind bulletproof glass and you pointed out what you wanted. The Concha y Toro was positioned front and center, and good thing — you wouldn’t want to be forced to do too many elaborate hand gestures to obtain a $3 bottle of wine. It tasted good enough to our undeveloped palates, a fine pairing for that uncomplicated food.
Excerpted from "I Loved, I Lost, I Made Spaghetti," by Giulia Melucci. Copyright (c) 2009. Reprinted with permission from Grand Central Publishing.
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