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Winter escapes offer much more than skiing

Plenty of options for families who want to enjoy winter off the slopes

Image: Snowshoes
Snowshoes are essential at the von Trapp Family Lodge.
Don Landwehrle ©2007 / Photo courtesy of Trapp Family L
By Eileen Ogintz
Tribune Media Services
updated 3:29 p.m. ET Jan. 22, 2009

Yes!

No one is yelling, “hurry up, Mom!” or tapping ski poles impatiently.

That's because I've forsaken the slopes today — as terrific as they are at the brand-new Spruce Peak base area at Stowe Mountain Resort — and any attempt to keep up with my gang — and instead am snowshoeing at von Trapp Family Lodge, located a few miles away. My guide is Kristina von Trapp Frame, granddaughter of Maria von Trapp, the young Austrian novitiate-turned governess-turned wife made famous by Julie Andrews' portrayal in “The Sound of Music.” Maria's youngest son and Kristina's dad, Johannes von Trapp, opened the first cross-country ski center in North America 40 years ago this month.

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And on this cold, snowy, January Sunday in this picture postcard town in Vermont, there are plenty of families, on cross-country skis and snowshoes, taking advantage of 100 kilometers of groomed and back-country trails that wind through both wood and meadow. No worries if there isn't enough natural snow; the resort now has snowmaking equipment.

No worries about the weather either. “When you are in the woods, you are out of the wind,” explains von Trapp Frame, a former Aspen ski instructor and mom of two young daughters. Not only is snowshoeing or cross-country skiing good exercise and a lot cheaper than downhill skiing, it's a lot of fun with kids, says von Trapp Frame, who gets out with her kids often on the cross-country trails. And while they cross-country ski, they listen out for different birds (was that a woodpecker?), look for animal tracks in the snow (squirrel or deer?) and stop for a snack on a conveniently placed bench (M&Ms anyone?).

Kristina and I trek up to a tiny stone cabin built by her uncle after World War II. Her brother, Sam, plans to be married here this spring, she tells us. It's so pretty and peaceful. Another plus: I'm burning lots of calories — more than I would burn running or hiking.

Image: Spa time
Photo courtesy of Stowe Mountain
Mother-daughter spa time at Stowe Mountain Resort.

Don't get me wrong. I love downhill skiing — even when my kids get on my case about skiing faster, but sometimes the weather doesn't cooperate (it's no fun to ski when it's freezing!), sometimes one of the gang isn't feeling 100 percent (we've been to plenty of mountain clinics with ear infections and sore throats, as well as various ski injuries) and sometimes we're just in the mood for some other kind of fun. That's why I love the increasing options in and around ski resorts. You can indulge yourself at a spa, the brand-new one at the Stowe Mountain Lodge offers an array of treatments for adults and for teens, or simply cozy up by the fire with the kids and play a board game.

Steering clear of the slopes for a day or two can also make your vacation buck stretch farther at a time when we're all counting every vacation penny, In Stowe, there's the chance to visit the ski museum, Ben & Jerry's factory down the road, watch a glass blower or learn to ice climb. (Visit gostowe.com and check out the Kids Zone to get the 411 from local kids.)

  It's A Snap!

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Introduce the kids to ice fishing in California's Lake Tahoe or spend the night in the backcountry in a wilderness cabin accessible only by snowshoe or cross-country skis.

Visit the top of the Olympic track at Utah Olympic Park in Park City, take a ride on the Alpine Coaster — alpine coaster-meets-rollercoaster — at Park City Mountain Resort or go tubing at Gorgoza Park, which offers Fort Frosty, a snow playground for the kindergarten and preschool set, and snowmobiling for grade-schoolers.

Visit Yellowstone National Park by way of Big Sky, Mont., or Jackson Hole, Wyo.


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