Lidia's bucatini with homemade bread crumbs

Cut off the crust of the bread chunk and with your fingers tear the interior of the bread into irregular shreds, 1/4-inch or a bit larger — big enough to crunch nicely when toasted. For a pound of pasta, shred two full cups of the rough crumbs.

Heat at least six quarts of water, with a tablespoon salt, to a rolling boil in the big pot and add the bucatini. Bring it back to the boil and cook, partially covered, until al dente.

As soon as the pasta is in the pot, pour 1/2 cup of olive oil into the big skillet, set over medium-high heat and scatter in the garlic slices. Cook for a couple of minutes until the garlic is sizzling and fragrant but still pale. Drop in the torn bread crumbs and stir and tumble them over to coat with oil. Keep tossing as they start to toast and color, sprinkle over the oregano, and continue stirring and tossing. Lower the heat to avoid burning and, as soon as the crumbs and garlic slices are deep gold and crisp, turn off the heat.

Meanwhile, keep checking the pasta for doneness. As soon as it is cooked al dente, lift out the bucatini with tongs and a spider, let the water drain off for just a second or two, then drop it into the skillet.

Turn the heat up a bit and immediately toss the pasta with the bread crumbs and garlic. Sprinkle on a 1/2 teaspoon salt and keep tossing. If the crumbs absorbed all the oil and the pasta seems dry, drizzle over two or more tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil and toss well. Taste and season with more salt if needed. Finally, sprinkle on the parsley (and grated Canestrato Pugliese if you have it), toss and serve right away.

A note about dried oregano:
Dried oregano is more pronounced in taste than fresh and it is an essential ingredient in these dishes from Puglia and in many of my recipes from Sicily. I recommend buying dried oregano on the branch, if you can find it, rather than crushed leaves in jars. In my market, bouquets of dried oregano stalks, usually from Sicily, are packed in cellophane. To use in recipes, pull out one branch and, over a piece of parchment or wax paper, rub it lightly between you palms. Gather up the fallen leaves and measure. Keep rubbing until you have the amount called for.