Iceland teeters on the brink of bankruptcy

updated 2:08 p.m. ET Oct. 8, 2008

REYKJAVIK, Iceland - This volcanic island near the Arctic Circle is on the brink of becoming the first “national bankruptcy” of the global financial meltdown.

Home to just 320,000 people on a territory the size of Kentucky, Iceland has formidable international reach because of an outsized banking sector that set out with Viking confidence to conquer swaths of the British economy — from fashion retailers to top soccer teams.

The strategy gave Icelanders one of the world’s highest per capita incomes. But now they are watching helplessly as their economy implodes — their currency losing almost half its value, and their heavily exposed banks collapsing under the weight of debts incurred by lending in the boom times.

“Everything is closed. We couldn’t sell our stock or take money from the bank,” said Johann Sigurdsson as he left a branch of Landsbanki in downtown Reykjavik.

The government had announced it had nationalized the bank under emergency laws enacted to deal with the crisis.

“We have been forced to take decisive action to save the country,” Prime Minister Geir H. Haarde said of those sweeping new powers that allow the government to take over companies, limit the authority of boards, and call shareholder meetings.

Iceland plunged further into financial turmoil — and muddled into a diplomatic spat with Britain over its handling of the crisis — on Wednesday as the country's third-largest bank went into receivership and the government abandoned attempts to put a floor under its free-falling currency.

As increasingly worried Icelanders attended a protest concert in the capital's main square and reported problems withdrawing and transferring money from banks, their government was scrambling to get a hold on the spiraling situation.

A full-blown collapse of Iceland’s financial system would send shock waves across Europe, given the heavy investment by Icelandic banks and companies across the continent.

One of Iceland’s biggest companies, retailing investment group Baugur, owns or has stakes in dozens of major European retailers — including enough to make it the largest private company in Britain, where it owns a handful of stores such as the famous toy store Hamley’s.

Kaupthing, Iceland’s largest bank and one of those whose share trading was suspended last week to stop a huge sell-off, has also invested in European retail groups.

Thousands of Britons have accounts with Icesave, the online arm of Landsbanki that regulators said was likely to file for bankruptcy after it stopped permitting customers to withdraw money from their accounts Tuesday.

To try to wrest control of the spiraling situation, the government also loaned $680 million to Kaupthing to tide it over and said it was negotiating a $5.4 billion loan from Russia to shore up the nation’s finances.

Interactive Worldwide turmoil Learn how the U.S. economic crisis is sending shockwaves around the world.

The speed of Iceland’s downfall in the week since it announced it was nationalizing Glitnir bank, the country’s third largest, caught many by surprise despite warnings that it was the “canary in the coal mine” of the global credit squeeze.

Famous for its cod fishing industry, geysers, moonscape and the Blue Lagoon, Iceland was the site of the Cold War showdown in which Bobby Fischer of the United States defeated Boris Spassky of the Soviet Union in 1972 for the world chess championship. Last year, Iceland won the U.N.’s “best country to live in” poll, with its residents deemed the most contented in the world.

No more.

Despite sunny skies Tuesday after three days of unseasonably cold weather, Reykjavik’s mood remained grim — cafes were half-empty, real estate agents sat idle, and retailers reported few sales.

“I’m really starting to get worried now. Everything is bad news. I don’t know what’s happening,” said retiree Helga Jonsdottir as she headed to a supermarket.

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