Not-quite-so-thin is in for Fashion Week models

updated 4:06 p.m. ET Sept. 11, 2008

If model thin is always in, at least there were fewer protruding collar bones and ribs to be counted at New York Fashion Week.

Models were up to sizes 2 and 4 — not 0, accomoderding to Nian Fish, chair of a fashion designers health initiative. Designers rejected prepubescent 13-year-olds. And at least one super-thin model who had the audience talking a few seasons ago was noticeably absent.

"I think a lot of the direction from the designers has been a much healthier approach," said James Aguiar, co-host of Ultra HD's "Full Frontal Fashion," who noticed more curves and smiles on the runway.

Avril Graham, executive fashion and beauty editor at Harper's Bazaar, also saw a healthier look and more diversity: "We're obviously going through a season of a less cookie cutter look."

That is a small relief to those who have brought attention to the cause of eating disorders in the fashion world, though many say there's a long way to go.

"I saw a few that looked better," said Finola Hughes, host of "How Do I Look?" on the Style Network. "I actually saw some breasts, which was great. But there was one show I went to and everyone looked really skinny."

The question of how thin is too thin has been tossed around since Kate Moss made her modeling debut 20 years ago, ushering in an era of "heroin chic." In 2006, at least two models died from complications linked to eating disorders, which prompted some in Europe to try to ban skinny models from the runway.

Efforts were more modest in the United States. The Council of Fashion Designers of America held workshops on eating disorders and recommended that designers keep models under 16 off the runway, offer healthier snacks backstage and require those identified as having an eating disorder to seek professional help if they want to continue modeling.

"I think there's progress," said Fish, creative consultant for KCD Worldwide, which produces fashion shows and events. "The girls are still slim. We didn't want them not to be slim. We wanted a projection of health."

Some critics consider the industry's efforts lacking because they still let skinny winnies rule the runways — while the models suffer to become walking hangers.

MORE FROM NEW YORK FASHION WEEK

Stella McCartney makes activewear sexy

Stella McCartney makes activewear sexy ‘Runway’ final six make it work in NYC 'Runway' winner at Fashion Week Harem pants? Unusual Fashion Week trends Easy color signals sunny fashion theme 'Gossip Girl' guide to Fashion Week At Fashion Week, star power outshines models Timberlake models his Southern roots Olympian Dara Torres models fashions DKNY marks 20 years with updated looks   Add New York Fashion Week headlines to your news reader: