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America's best country inns and hotels
4. The Grand Country Villa
What: Wheatleigh
Where: Lenox, Massachusetts
The pitch: To quote J.P. Morgan, "If you have to ask, you can't afford it." But if you don't have to ask, and you like your lodging a little bit country—that country being Italy or France—then you belong at Wheatleigh. Built in 1893 as a wedding present for the daughter of a wealthy financier (who was apparently willing to spend anything to get her married off), it is perhaps the most imposing Florentine-style palazzo in all of the Berkshires, and is staffed largely by impeccably mannered Europeans who seem only vaguely aware that they're no longer in Provence. The rooms are designed to soothe with understated luxury and no hint of clutter, fussiness, or chintz. And the rooms are big, although not all 19 could accommodate the piano Leonard Bernstein once carted into the two-story Aviary Suite. The four-course tasting menu in the legendarily fine dining room is a must. And the view of Wheatleigh's 22 landscaped acres, which were designed by Frederick Law Olmsted, of New York's Central Park fame—that's totally free.
The details: The color of money, it turns out, is the shades of beige and brown that predominate in a decor meant to say, "Relax, Wall Street is two-and-a-half hours away."
The killer app: You are close enough to Tanglewood, summer home of the Boston Pops, to walk over for a Sunday concert on the lawn—as long as you don't mind carrying your silver-plated Champagne bucket.
–Bob Payne
Wheatleigh
Tel: 413 637 0610
E-mail: info@wheatleigh.com
Doubles from $645
5. The Island Cottage
What: A Stone's Throw Away Bed & Breakfast
Where: Nassau, Bahamas
The pitch: With Atlantis Resort towering over Paradise Island, it seems nearly impossible to get away from worldly worries on Nassau (not to mention blatant commercialism and marauding children). But there's still a bit of old-school Bahamian hospitality left at A Stone's Throw, a 10-room estate set high on a hill above New Providence's Gambier Village, 20 minutes from Paradise Island. Outfitted with traditional Bahamian wood floors and ceilings, shuttered windows, and wraparound verandas on three floors, it has the feel of an informal summer house: Breakfast is served till 10 a.m., but if (and when) you oversleep, the chef will gladly whip something up and serve it poolside. That informality extends to the honor bar, where guests help themselves to cocktails noon till night. A no-children-under-16 policy ensures a welcome calm, and guests tend to spread out in the common areas, reading and quietly taking in the panoramic views of Lake Killarney and the surrounding pine forests, not to mention the visible coral reefs that protect the area's beaches. Speaking of sand, Orange Hill Beach is a three-minute walk, or opt for the 10-minute trek to the more remote "Love Beach" with a picnic basket for two (prepped by that friendly chef).
The details: The rooms are pleasantly understated, with colonial-style furniture, full bookshelves, and L'Occitane products. Although the two top-floor suites are the most private and spacious, the less expensive Ocean-View Rooms (No. 8 and 9) are the jewels, with antique teak daybeds draped in white flowing curtains situated on ocean-view verandas.
The killer app: We love a property with its priorities in order: Besides the bench located under the pool's waterfall, our favorite spot is the tiny spa. It has a surprisingly sophisticated menu, including a Hawaiian lomi lomi massage and Japanese facials to help you get your relax on. — Cathay Che
A Stone's Throw Away
Tel: 242 327 7030
E-mail: info@astonesthrowaway.com
Doubles from $175
6. The New England Inn
What: Deerhill Inn
Where: West Dover, Vermont
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Credit: Courtesy of Deerhill Inn Get your quiet time and savor indulgent breakfasts and dinners at Vermont's Deerhill Inn. |
The pitch: The Deerhill is in the southernmost part of Vermont—a straight shot north from New York City and the rest of the metropolitan area. So it quite consciously caters to stressed-to-the-gills city types with the comforting air of a grandmother: We know what you need, it says: Quiet time. In the summer, that means a shaded porch facing an immaculate garden and a small, welcoming pool; in the winter, a fireplace and chessboard in the common rooms. Yes, the prototypical stuff of New England inns. But owners Stan Gresens and Michael Allen, two ex-Bostonians who bought the former ski lodge in 2002, know their audience. They've stocked the 14 rooms and upstairs library with thought-provoking books, back issues of the New Yorker, and copies of the Sunday Times. They've decorated the place in an "eclectic country" style with found items (antique rocking chairs, hand-sewn bedspreads) but manage to avoid knickknackery. And naturally, they serve up indulgent breakfasts and dinners, but not the leaden French toast or not-so-prime rib you've suffered at other B&Bs. Michael, a chef, is responsible for the walnut-and-spinach bread, sweet berry pastries, layered eggplant-and-goat-cheese appetizer, saddle of lamb in red wine sauce, and wild mint ice cream.
The details: The Tamarack room is our favorite, with a super-sized bed big enough to sleep on sideways, a gas fireplace set in stone, and a bathroom that manages to feel both New England elegant (an antique end table serves as the vanity) and indulgently modern (a rain showerhead the size of a huge sunflower). There's a TV and DVD player, too, but they're hidden in a cupboard.
The killer app: The hilltop location off a small side road. There's a sense of literally getting off the fast track here—the views of the Green Mountains help. That garden and the wooden chairs strewn about outside encourage reading or quiet contemplation. Just don't think about that Monday morning meeting. — Jason Harper
Deerhill Inn
Tel: 802 464 3100
E-mail: innkeeper@deerhillinn.com
Doubles from $155; $275 for the Tamarack room
7. The Culinary Retreat
What: White Barn Inn
Where: Kennebunkport, Maine
The pitch: Let us fill you in on a secret about Maine: People don't really come for the rocky beaches, the quaint cottages, or the quirky character of the place. They come for the food. (Admit it, you're already thinking about lobster, aren't you?) What we love about the White Barn Inn in Kennebunkport is that it handily fulfills the gustatory urge—it's a Relais & Châteaux property whose restaurant distills the best elements of Maine—and it throws in all those extras—the gorgeous beaches and outsized charm—as well. The restaurant is in a restored barn with high ceilings and so much wood you'll worry about the number of candles. The tuxedoed waiters are blessed with the ability to be at once meticulous and relaxed (and funny)—the kind of personality that comes from working happily at one place for a very long time. Executive chef Jonathan Cartwright cooks up New England dishes with a little extra panache for his four-course tasting menu—drizzling truffle vinaigrette over scallops and sweetbreads as an opener, proceeding to shrimp, lobster, and sea urchins with a hollandaise glaze, then roast duck breast with potato foam, a cartful of New England cheeses, and an apple soufflé to finish it all off. What—not enough lobster? Order à la carte: The lobster spring rolls are our personal favorite, and how can you not try the steamed Maine lobster with fettuccine and cognac-butter sauce?
The details: Guests have been staying at the inn since the 1860s, and its organic evolution is reflected in the variety of room styles. You have a choice of 28 rooms, including four garden lodgings that open onto a courtyard with a garden and pool, and three wharf cottages built along the Kennebunk River, each with patio and fireplace. If you want the showstopper, book the Loft, with its own entrance, cathedral ceilings, large Jacuzzi bath and steam shower, and private veranda.
The killer app: If you've come this far for a knockout meal, you may as well go all the way, with a private dinner in the Wine Cellar. Home to the inn's 7,000 bottles, it's constructed of warm red cedar, mahogany, and marble, and is surprisingly cozy. The restaurant can seat up to 15 guests, and the sommelier will arrange special tastings to accompany the courses. — Jason Harper
White Barn Inn
Tel: 207 967 2321
E-mail: innkeeper@whitebarninn.com
Doubles from $315; junior suites from $620
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