Go Greek with baked feta cheese

Phil Lempert TODAY Food Editor • Profile • E-mail

This simple dish, a twist on a classic, was stolen from executive chef David Ogren of Ammos Estiatorio, an upscale Greek fusion restaurant located near Grand Central Station in New York City. Feta cheese, a blend of sheep’s and goat’s milk, originates from the northwest region of Greece known as Epirus. It is sliced into two slabs, smothered with olive oil and broiled. The cheese develops a golden brown crust with a warm and gooey center. The lemon-dressed frisée, croutons and toasted filberts cut through the creaminess of the cheese. The dried cranberries add a fruit flavor to the dish, while the lemon vinaigrette has a touch of Tabasco sauce.

Using only the freshest of ingredients, Ogren has created an eclectic mix of refined Greek cuisine with distinct Mediterranean and North African influences in the menu at Ammos. He imports many of the ingredients directly from Greece, such as sea salt, dried oregano from Mount Paygetos, capers and caper berries, and many of the staples used in the dishes — like olive oil, honey and halloumi cheese — are produced on a family farm in Cyprus. 

Ammos is the Greek word for “sand,” and the restaurant’s airy, open design, light woods and weathered stones conjure the sun-drenched atmosphere of the Greek Islands. Sandstone pillars, sweeping ceilings and suspended umbrellas create drama at this Greek refuge. The entryway and bar are lined with tiles made of Thassos, a Greek white marble. Leather banquette seating in shades of sand and wood blend organically with the room. A two-story wall of wine stretches to the mezzanine, while an oversized image of a boat drifting on a turquoise sea decorated with ammos transports diners to the isles.

About the chef:  Executive chef David Ogren is originally from East Lansing, Mich. He graduated from the Culinary Institute of America and then trained at the famed French Laundry. Before becoming executive chef at Ammos, David was the executive chef of Level Bistro in Cape Cod. In June 2008 he was awarded a three-star review from Bob Lape, food editor of Crain’s New York. Ogren takes pride in using only the freshest of ingredients to produce foods with clean and exciting flavors.

Ammos Estiatorio
52 Vanderbilt Avenue
New York, NY 10017
212-922-9999
www.ammosnewyork.com

Baked Epirus feta cheese with toasted filberts, cranberries and frisée and ciabatta croutons is served at Ammos for $12.  

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