What makes for a great summertime beer?

'Tis the saison
Before refrigeration was invented in the 19th century, all beer brewing was strictly seasonal, possible only after the fall grain harvest and up through March. Warmer weather made brewing impractical; there were too many wild yeast strains in the air and no more ice for cool storage. The challenge was to brew a reasonably refreshing beer that could last through the entire summer and harvest period without spoiling. In Belgium, the farmhouse solution became the appropriately named Saison ("season"). Using hard water, heavy hopping, and high-mashing temperatures, this very dry, crisp, and highly carbonated style has a significant alcohol content (up to 6.5 percent) for a summer beer, which helped to preserve it back when.

Earthy, often fruity, sometimes spiced, and sporting a dense head, this endangered style is served in Champagne-style bottles with cork closures, a festive sight on ice at a picnic. Dupont's Saison is available in the United States. Omergang, a Belgian-inspired craft brewer based in Cooperstown, New York, also makes a highly rated domestic Saison under its Hennepin label.

A related style for similar historical reasons (delivering beer intact after a long, hot voyage at sea to thirsty British troops in Colonial India), but far more ubiquitous in today's market, is the popular India Pale Ale, or IPA. Many American IPAs go overboard on the hops, but when in balance, like Sierra Nevada's excellent, herbaceous version, they are the perfect foil for Indian cuisine. In both instances, says Brooklyn's Oliver, the IPAs and Saisons have, through their dry hoppiness, an uncanny affinity with the cilantro and chilies present in Thai and Vietnamese cuisine. Just watch the higher alcohol!

Ein pils, bitte
From the bottom-fermenting lager side of the aisle, another summer classic is pilsner, simply the world's most popular beer style. In many cases, however, it's also the most watered down and insipid. To quote Oliver: "Pilsner was invented in Czech Bohemia, perfected in Germany, and turned into mass-market fizz in America."

When made in the true German style — solely from barley malt, highly hopped, and stored cool for at least two months before release (in German, "lager" refers to "storage") — pilsner is a crisp, dry golden lager with a slightly floral, resinous aroma, a bitter (but appetizing) first bite, and a smooth, bready finish. In Germany, any Kneipe (pub) worth its salt has hand-drawn Pilsner on tap. This should take exactly seven minutes to pour (aficionados will often time it), leading to a lovely, thick head capable of supporting a penny on top. And in the summer, thirsty Germans, knowing this time sequence, will often order two Pilsner at once!

More round and less complex in flavor than most ales, authentic pilsner is a straightforward delight in the hot weather and companionable with most foods, spicy dishes in particular. If you're serving mixed appetizers, pilsner is a perfect choice, rivaling Champagne in versatility. And with North German–style pilsners, like Jever and Bitburger, the extra bitterness is a perfect foil for oysters and shellfish.

While German and Czech pilsners are readily available in America, there are some excellent homegrown types to check out as well, including Stoudt's Pils, Brooklyn Pilsner (Oliver imports all his ingredients from Germany to ensure an authentic taste), and Great Lakes Brewing Company's Barrel Select Pils.

Whatever summer style you prefer, pay a little more and exploit our expanding beer universe by stocking up on some domestic micro versions, or an imported original, for that next outdoor soirée. After all, summer is prime suds season.

On tap this summer

• Weihenstephaner Hefeweissbier: A true classic. Pale orange, with notes of clove spice, banana, light caramel, and nutmeg. Incredibly lively, like tasty scrubbing bubbles. Perfect for spicy fare.
  
• Hoegaarden Witbier: Pale, hazy yellow, this witbier actually comes close to "white" (the color). Citrusy, light-bodied, and zesty, with some coriander spice and hints of orange peel. Totally refreshing and better than a mimosa at brunch.
  
• Saison Dupont: Has a lovely, dense head and earthy, herbal aromas. Pale yellow-orange and full-bodied, with a snappy bitter, dry finish. Highly drinkable. Try it with Thai food.
  
• Gaffel Kölsch: Clear, dark gold color, with a fresh, malty nose. Pleasantly bitter and bready. A balanced, light, and flavorful summer quaffer.
  
• Jever Pilsener: A clear, golden North German Pilsner with palate-rocking hop bitterness flowing into a smooth, clean malt finish. An all-purpose brew that's perfect for a clambake.
  
• Molson Canadian Lager: My "lawnmower" beer. Has surprising body and taste for a macrobrew, a little sweetness, and a lively exit.

Based in New York City, Christopher Matthews is a wine and spirits writer.

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