The great Yucatán escape
Deco stops
No visit to the Yucatán would be complete without visiting a Maya temple or two. Don’t miss Chichén Itzá, Tulum or in the south, Kohunlich. Follow the locals from Cancún, and take the ferry over to nearby Isla Mujeres to soak up the slower pace of life and the sun on this island’s famous beaches. Stroll down Second Avenue and sample some of the best fish tacos at any of the local restaurants. In the south, take the giant leap off the 25-foot platform into Lake Bacalar, then have a lunch of ceviche and fresh grilled lobster at the nearby restaurant. In Cancún, get a taste of the authentic side of Cancún life — check out the bullfights on Saturday. Have dinner at the Restaurante Oasis in Cancún and get a photo taken dressed as an acolyte of Pancho Villa. For the ultimate indulgence, take a few nights of bliss at the Eurostars Dive Tulum Resort & Spa in Tulum. Search for the elusive jaguar in the Rio Hondo wilderness area with Ernesto of Aventuras Dive Center. For 24/7 days and nights, take on the Fifth Avenue Challenge in Playa del Carmen. In Mahahual, enjoy the relaxed vibe with a massage on the beach. On Cozumel, check out the San Gervasio ruins and then take a long lunch at Sonrisa Restaurant (the octopus ceviche will ignite your palate). If you want to bring home some of the peninsula’s local woodcrafts, your best (and least expensive) bet is to head south and buy directly from the craftsmen.
Ultimate moment
I have searched the world for the best place to encounter sailfish, one of the ocean’s fastest fish. To my wonderful surprise, two years ago I found sailfish nirvana in Mexico just off the sleepy island of Isla Mujeres. In the average dive life, to see even one sailfish underwater is exceptional. To see a group of 10 is exciting. To see 20 is thrilling. To see 30 is electrifying. But to witness 50 or more stretching as far as your eyes can see, feeding with lightning-fast sweeps on the bait ball of sardines, is a feast for the soul, as close to the melting point of joy as you’re likely to find diving. To experience this once-in-a-lifetime adventure, check out biganimals.com. — Amos Nachoum
The guide to the Yucatán
Average water temperature: 80-84° F
What to wear: shorty in summer, 3 mm jumpsuit in winter
Average visibility: 80-200 feet
When to go: year-round
Must do
Lake Bacalar: Take a big leap off the platform, 25 feet above Lake Bacalar and the Cenote Azul. Afterward, celebrate your bravery with a frozen margarita from the nearby restaurant.
Must dive
Palancar Caves (Cozumel): A more apt name might be Palancar Maze. You’ll find sponge-heavy overhangs, mini-canyons and deep spur and groove formations.
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C-53 (Cozumel): Bring your camera for this wreck. It sits upright in 80-feet of water. The view looking down the wreck from the bow is breathtaking.
Chinchorro Banks (Mahahual): Practically virgin diving all along the Chinchorro Banks. You’ll probably have any site along this legendary section of reef all to yourself. Enjoy.
C-58 (Cancún): Broken in two by a forgotten hurricane, this old Navy minesweeper is packed with fish inside and blanketed with spotted eagle rays (especially on high current days) outside.
Travel tips
The Yucatán is one of the easiest places in the Caribbean to explore. You’ll find lots of direct flights into Cancún from many hubs in the United States. You can rent a car and drive from Cancún all the way to the Belize border. Bring a sturdy pair of shoes for the jungle and hiking the ruins, as well as booties for traversing the rocks at the cenotes.
Must have
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Price of paradise
If your escapist fantasies include visions of margaritas, white-sand beaches and thatched-roof shaded patios where lobsters sizzle on a grill, think Mexico’s Caribbean. Check out our online guide to real estate in this region at sportdiver.com/ownapieceofparadisenow.
Rigged & ready
Eagle Creek Hovercraft: With an expandable main compartment and dual exterior pockets, this lightweight rolling bag offers ample storage space for traveling. eaglecreek.com
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