History is made on ‘Top Chef Chicago’

Before I was assigned to cover “Top Chef” for TODAYshow.com, I was unfamiliar with the show besides knowing that many, many people are obsessed with it. It is a pop-culture phenomenon, after all. Yet it didn’t make sense to me. My reasoning was simple: How could I appreciate a cooking competition if I’m not there to taste the food?

I now understand the appeal. “Top Chef” is not just about constructing a tasty meal; it’s about the eccentric personalities. After all, lead judge Tom Colicchio said it best: “I think part of being a chef is having an attitude and swagger.” But Stephanie Izard’s victory proved that creativity and craftsmanship are more important than a colorful personality.

The three finalists couldn’t be further apart in terms of style. Colicchio said it best again: “Richard, more intellectual out there; Lisa, staying true to herself and what she likes to cook; Stephanie, more homespun.” Richard is certainly not shy about his ability. As a molecular gastronomist, he uses all sorts of tools and gadgets in his cooking, including blowtorches and a tank of liquid nitrogen. Lisa prefers to cook Asian cuisine featuring big, bold flavors. Stephanie constantly doubts her ability, but almost always delivers a solid, well-planned meal.

As someone who loves good food, I enjoyed watching these talented craftsmen work. Richard wowed me week in and week out. Using “Willy Wonka and the Chocolate Factory” for inspiration, he dreamed up smoked salmon with faux caviar and white chocolate wasabi for the Week 4 Elimination Challenge. Stephanie cooked a dish using both peanut butter and tomato. The judges didn’t like it — but hey, how many people would ever think of combining those flavors? The extremely energetic Andrew (aka T-ray) rolled a riceless sushi using instead pureed parsnips and pine nuts.

But as much as I love a tasty meal, I love drama more. This was a spicy season (pardon the pun) and even the New York Times noticed the prevalence of foul language. Right away I knew I was in for a treat. Week 2, Spike went out of his way to molest the produce section of the grocery store — making it harder for his competitors to get the best fruits and veggies. The next week, when the contestants were charged with catering a block party using the food the neighbors had in their kitchens, he deliberately sent the opposing team away from a home he knew was well-stocked.

Week 5, things really got heated. Spike went toe-to-toe with lesbian couple Zoi and Jen, enraging Jen so much she kicked a chair against a wall. But nothing compared to the epic grudge match between Dale and Lisa, which also began on that episode.

Lisa knew she wasn’t popular on “Top Chef.” “I can be that bitch that everybody hates,” she said. Dale made no secret of his antipathy. “You get to bitch and whine about everything,” he screamed at her. Later, he tried to make amends in the most backhanded of fashions. Her negativity, he explained, “rubs me the wrong way,” and the other contestants didn’t like her much, either. Lisa also made enemies with Andrew, throwing him under the bus when they both faced elimination. She pointed out to the judges that he, not she, failed to follow the rues. In one of the more outrageous moments, he unleashed on her. “You called me out on my dish! Don’t say sh-t!” he screamed. “Just live with your f--king decisions and I hope you’re f--king happy and I hope people get to see this!”

Her competitors weren’t Lisa’s only targets; she also lashed out at the judges. Appearing before them, she assumed a defensive posture and a sneer crept across her face. When they said her food was too bland, she said if anything, it was overseasoned. “By nature, she’s not inclined to accept criticism by anyone at this table,” guest judge Anthony Bourdain said. She didn’t like accepting responsibility, either. When she overcooked her rice, she cried foul, claiming someone turned her burner too high on purpose. She was the clear villain going into the finals.

Richard and Stephanie are mild-mannered chefs who enjoy nothing more than cooking good food. They helped their fellow contestants, split prizes and gave credit to others when credit was due. They came to play by the rules and win. It paid off for them. Although Stephanie won, Richard showed himself to be a great chef who emerged with his dignity intact. But that’s boring to me. What I want is a nasty chef who yells at people and swears a lot. Stephanie is sweet and talented. Kudos to her for becoming the first female “Top Chef.” But on my reality TV, I like the people I love to hate. So I’ll take Lisa every time.

More from TODAY   Video: ‘ER’ star to have breast tumor surgery Diary of a 23-year-old mistress | Discuss She lost 112 pounds — and gained a bikini bod Jon Gosselin has a new career and a new girlfriend   Beckham and boys root for dad | More photos

MORE FROM FOOD & WINE

Food & Wine Section Front

Martha Stewart’s chicken burger   Canadian coffee chain hits U.S. Heat up your catch with spicy fish croquettes Smthg gr8 4 brkfst? Twitter's recipes Muscadet magic: Summer’s underrated white Are awful wine pairings useful? Keep it fresh! Dos and don’ts of storing food Up the steaks with these tasty side dishes Which is the best burger? Chefs battle it out   Healthy eating for your family Food & Wine Section Front   Add Food & Wine headlines to your news reader: