This summer, transform yourself into a grilling pro

By Sarah Kagan

updated 2:10 p.m. ET May 14, 2008

It's grilling season, and in your mind's eye, you can picture yourself standing confidently over a hot fire, tongs in hand. But in reality you have no idea how to get to that point. What kind of grill should you buy? How do you build the fire? What about fancy add-ons like wood chips and chimney starters? It's enough to make you either retreat to the safety of indoor cooking or just buy a bag of Kingsford Match Light and call it a day.

But that would be a shame, because good grilling is nowhere near as complicated as it might seem. We called on Steven Raichlen, whose numerous books on the subject (including the 2004 James Beard Award winner "BBQ USA") and PBS television show "Barbecue University" have introduced millions to the joys of outdoor cooking. Raichlen gave us the lowdown on what to buy, how to use it, and where to go from there. Read on, and you'll soon be grilling like a pro.

Buying a grill
The first question when buying a grill is: gas or charcoal? "This depends on whether you're a 'journey' or a 'destination' person," says grilling guru Steven Raichlen. "Charcoal burns hotter and makes it easier to tackle more advanced techniques like smoking. It's perfect for aspiring grill masters who want the pure pleasure of playing with fire.

"Gas offers push-button convenience and consistent, steady heat. So if you're just looking for an efficient tool for backyard cookouts, this is your best bet."

Raichlen himself owns several of each. "I use them for different purposes," he says. Here's Steve's advice on what to look for in each category.

Gas
When looking for a gas grill, make sure to take note of the following:

• Look for a grill with at least two burners. According to Steve, "more than that is even better."
  
  
• A gas gauge and thermometer are essential. "It's amazing how many grills don't have these standard elements."
  
  
• You can't grill without high heat: "I love the Fiesta Optima, which is inexpensive and sears amazingly well."
  
  
• A separate smoker box, "for using wood chips to add flavor."
  
  
• A separate rotisserie is a nice addition. "Nothing beats the juiciness of food cooked on a rotisserie."
  
  
• If you're looking for something extra, look no further than side burners. "Side burners for heating sauces and keeping food warm are a plus."

Charcoal
Charcoal grills, like their gas counterparts, have a set of essential characteristics no griller should overlook:

• Look for adjustable vents in the bottom and lid. "These are essential for controlling the heat when the lid is closed."
  
  
• Hinged grill grates allow you to "add more fuel while food is cooking."
  
  
• Raichlen's all-around favorite: "With a 22 1/2-inch Weber kettle grill, you can do anything. The round shape reflects the heat, and it's perfect for smoking."
  
  
• If you're looking for something extra, "the CB940 from Charbroil has a box shape with a roomy grilling surface. Plus it's front-loading, making it easy to add charcoal or even whole logs."

All grills
No matter the style, any grill you buy should have a few features:

• A sturdy steel frame.
  
  
• As many side tables as possible.
  
  
• A cast-iron or steel grate with at least 1/4-inch-thick rods. "I don't like porcelainized enamel. The food sticks, and it doesn't produce good grill marks."

Grilling basics
Congratulations, you've purchased a shiny new grill. But where do you go from there? "The backyard barbecue is one of America's most popular pastimes," says expert Steven Raichlen, "but a lot of people are confused about the specifics." Raichlen offers a step-by-step, no-nonsense guide to grilling techniques and equipment.

Fuel
Charcoal briquettes, which are made by compressing wood dust and petroleum binders, can produce acrid smoke. Two alternatives are:

• Recognizable by its rough, irregular edges, natural lump charcoal is wood that has been partially burned and broken into pieces. Because natural lump charcoal provides only 30 to 40 minutes of heat before more needs to be added (as opposed to 40 to 60 minutes for charcoal briquettes), it's helpful to have a hinged grill grate so you can lift one side to dump in more coals while food is cooking on the other side.
  
  
• Hardwood chunks are unburnt pieces of wood, which Raichlen calls the "best-kept secret of barbecue." They produce the campfire flavor of Tuscan and Argentine-style cooking. Hardwood chunks provide only 20 to 30 minutes of cooking time before they need to be replenished.

What about wood chips?
Not to be confused with wood chunks, these are smaller pieces that are used in addition to the chosen fuel to produce flavorful smoke. They should be presoaked in water so they will smolder slowly rather than igniting. Wood chips are traditionally used to slowly smoke meats in a covered grill over low heat, but they can also be tossed onto the coals (or, for gas grills, added to the smoker box) when doing quick, high-heat grilling.

Other kinds of wood
You may have heard about mesquite and other kinds of wood. Do they really make grilling better? The answer is yes. Whether you use chips or chunks, you can match the wood's "flavor" to the food being cooked. "I tell people to think of the smoke as a 'spice' that will complement the dish," says Raichlen. His recommended pairings:

• Lighter woods are perfect with seafood. When cooking salmon, try using alder chunks instead of charcoal, or adding alder chips.
  
  
• Try grilling whole fish over oak chunks or adding oak chips.
  
  
• Steaks grilled over mesquite chunks instead of charcoal will have a wonderfully rich, smoky flavor. (Mesquite can be used only as chunks — if chips are tossed over the coals, they will burn too quickly.)
  
  
• Pair cherry or apple chips with pork or chicken.
  
  
• When cooking pork with strongly flavored rubs or mop sauces, add chips of a heavier wood such as hickory.

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