Want the best of Asia and Europe? Try Istanbul

Peter Greenberg TODAY Travel Editor • Profile

Istanbul has always been what I call a "threshold" destination. It sits at the threshold of two continents. It exists at the threshold of two cultures. And every time I visit, I get to sit at the threshold of history.

Geographically, it straddles Europe and Asia. It's a great hub for traveling either east or west. But it's also a great place to start your trip. It brings together Ottoman mosques, Byzantine mosaics and Roman masonry. It is the most densely populated and cosmopolitan city in Turkey, and in my experience it remains the center of Turkish culture. Each neighborhood within the city retains its own distinct character.

Of course, there are many neighborhoods in Istanbul. And there are the must- see iconic places — St. Sophia, the Blue Mosque, Topkapi, the former palaces of the sultans. But for me, a trip to Istanbul must start on the water. Even the ride in from the airport is on a coastal road, with all the boat traffic on the Bosporus. In fact, it's the waterways of Istanbul that split the city into three sections. Two of these sections (Taksim and Sultanahmet) are on the European continent, while one (Kadikoy) is on the Asian continent.

The city always seems crowded, and much of that is because of its density. But there are two good times to go: May, and between September and November. And you can get a visa upon arrival. You can purchase a sticker-type entry visa when you arrive at the airport that is valid for three months. (If you purchase a single-entry tourist visa from a Turkish consulate in the U.S. prior to your trip, it will cost you $37.)
 
Lodging
Golden Crown Hotel: This small, three-star hotel is clean, centrally located and affordable, with breakfast included. Rates range from about $95 to $200. 90 212 638 19 44; goldencrownhotel.com

Yesel Ev: On the higher end is Yesel Ev, located literally steps from the Blue and Hagia Sophia Mosques. This former 19th-century mansion comes complete with brass bed, kilims (woven carpets) and even velvet curtains to make you feel like royalty. Try to stay in room 31, which has its own marble Turkish bath. Double room, about $350. Kabasakal Cad. No: 5; 0212 5176785; istanbulyesilev.com

Grand Halic Hotel: Located about a 15-minute walk from the Sultanahmet area, this 177-room hotel is a good option for travelers on a modest budget — double rooms start at about $150 a night. Refik Saydam Caddesi 37; 90 (212) 252 69 80 
 
Four Seasons Hotel: This former Turkish prison is one of the top luxury hotels in the city. It’s centrally located just steps from the Blue Mosque, with 65 rooms and suites surrounding an open courtyard. Expect to pay the price, though — rates are about $1,500 a night in early September. Tevkifhane Sokak No. 1, Sultanahmet-Eminönü, 90 (212) 638 82 00; fourseasons.com

Food
Like Mediterranean and Middle Eastern food, Turkish cuisine is all about flavor and spices (caution: you must love garlic and lemon). Vegetarian dishes abound here, with salads, grilled vegetables, hummus and other spicy dips. You can also find plenty of lamb kebobs, seafood, and grilled meats. If you can’t decide on just one dish, mezzes are small plates of hot and cold appetizers, and are a popular dining option among locals.

Tea time is a local tradition here; tea is served in clear, tulip-shaped glasses and drunk only with sugar. Another tradition is the meyhane, a traditional Turkish bar where the locals gather to work their way through several small plates and wash it down with raki, the national anise-flavored liquor.
 
For home-style Turkish cooking in a slightly elevated, white-tablecloth type atmosphere, head to Hunkar, where you can view the day’s specials on the counter before making your choice. Mim Kemal Oeke Caddesi 21; (212) 225-4665
 
Hamdi is an excellent spot for dinner and an unbeatable view — if the weather is good, sit on the rooftop, where you can see the sun set over the Golden Horn. Reservations are a must to grab one of these seats. And the food is pretty good, too, with a focus on grilled meats and a good variety of baklava for dessert. Tahmis Caddesi, 17 Kalçin Sokak
Eminönü, 90 212 528 0390
 
Don’t skip out on Istanbul’s street food culture. The neighborhood of Ortakoy on the European banks of the Bosporus has several lanes filled with food stalls. In the neighborhood of Taksim, the main street, Istiklal Caddesi, is a pedestrian-only area with plenty of food stands. Try simit, a traditional ring-shaped bread covered in sesame seeds served warm around tea time, Turkish Delight and plenty of spicy kebabs.

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