A taste of the Arabic world

Morocco's culinary splendor needs little translation however; the superb fusion of French and Middle-Eastern fare speaks for itself.

The day starts with a spectacular array of patisserie (as little as 25 cents) at the street stalls), accompanied by "qehwa bil halib" (coffee with milk) and the startlingly good "aseir limun" (orange juice).

Lunch is couscous, or tagine — which is the name of both a rich stew and the dome-shaped terra-cotta pot in which it is cooked.

To fill the gap between meals, "le gouter" of coffee or tea and cake might be taken at 7 p.m.

Moroccan dinner, normally eaten around 10 p.m., might be "harira" (soup with tomato and lentils), or perhaps an omelette and bread.

The renowned sugary mint tea is drunk throughout the day, and at greater frequency the farther south you go.

With the exception of hot drinks where the water has been boiled, drinking bottled water is advisable.

Islam is central to Moroccan life and on the main religious day of Friday, shops and businesses frequently shut for a good proportion of the afternoon, also allowing time for families to eat couscous together.

While it is not necessary to cover hair, or put on the "djellaba" — the long traditional gown — women may want to dress modestly in respect to local customs.

Adriana Valencia, a postgraduate scholar from the University of Berkeley, who lived in Rabat in 2006 and often comes back, urges visitors to explore a little. "Just ride a bicycle from Rabat to Essaouira, and stop in basically every small town and city in between," she said.

If a bike sounds a bit strenuous for a vacation, hiring a car and driver is always an option.

For travelers saving their dirhams (the local currency, currently about seven to the dollar), sharing a "grand-taxi" which seats two in the front, and four in the back, is the most convenient way to get between towns and villages.

If you go Morocco Tourism; 212-221-1583.

The smaller "petit-taxis," a different color in each town, are limited to three people but Moroccan law does not allow them to leave their designated city.

Buses are to be found in the town "gare routiere," and the mainly efficient trains run between major cities. Those on a bigger budget can take a four-wheel drive vehicle, known locally as a "quatre-quatre," on a tailor-made tour.

Choosing the best season to visit really depends on where travel is planned. The High Atlas Mountains are best walked in spring and autumn. Farther south, nearer the desert, summers can get unbearably hot.

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It's a bit chilly year-round on the Atlantic Ocean, but beaches are at their warmest in July and August.

In addition to Fez, Casablanca, Rabat and Marrakech, it is worth considering visits to Essaouira, for a glimpse of a coastal town with a rich architectural history, and Agadir, where you can start a trip along the coast, eat sumptuous seafood, and perhaps head out to the Anti-Atlas Mountains.

A few other places worth seeing in the countryside include:

• Chefchaouen, a pretty, quaint town, where the houses are painted blue, and which you can use as a departure point for exploring the rural north.
• Zagora, a small town next to the desert that can serve as a starting point to visit the villages of Tamegroute and Amezrou, and Mounts Zagora and Azlag.
• Merzouga, a small village reached via the town of Rissani, which provides accommodation within walking distance of Erg Chebbi, Morocco's largest sand dune.
• Ouarzazate, where you'll want to visit the kasbah, then head to the impressive Todra and Dades gorges.

And if you get homesick, you can even find a slice of stateside life in Morocco. Just hunt out the restaurant offering "Pizza a l'Americaine" near the Hassan Tower in Rabat.

"I was walking past one day and just caught this whiff of New York pizza, it was unmistakable," said Valencia.

The pizzeria's owner, Moroccan Max Labdi, was a New York cab driver for four years before coming home to set up the business.

"The American pizza is the best in the world. It just needed to come to Morocco," he said.

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