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A taste of the Arabic world

Experience dramatic variety and culinary splendor in Morocco

Image: A tourist climbs to the top of Ait Ben Haddou fortress near Ourzazate, Morocco
John McConnico / AP
A tourist climbs to the top of Ait Ben Haddou fortress near Ourzazate, Morocco, along what is called the route of a thousand kasbahs in the Atlas Mountains. Many tourists enjoy Morocco because it offers a taste of the Arabic world, without having to go to the Middle-East.
updated 3:53 p.m. ET April 2, 2008

MARRAKECH, Morocco - Morocco is probably best-known to American travelers for cities like Fez, Casablanca and Marrakech. But this country in the northwest corner of Africa is actually a place of dramatic variety. On a two-week or even one-week visit, it's feasible to fit in a trip to a major city or two, in addition to exploring rural areas.

You might explore undulating desert dunes, the magnificent Atlas Mountains, or a tranquil beach like those found near Agadir. Or visit the Volubilis Roman ruins near Meknes, the dinosaur footprints near Azilal, or eerily quiet Berber villages around Imlil, at the base of Mount Toubkal.

The ancient city of Fez is known for its architecture, alluring medina (the old part of the city) and Karaouine Mosque and University, dating from 859. In Marrakech, by day you can explore the Saadian tombs and the luscious Marjorelle Garden, and by night the famous Djemaa El Fna square, with its food stalls, entertainers and peddlers.

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In Casablanca, the modern, giant Hassan II mosque looks like it's melting into the sea at sunset. And for fans of the famous 1942 Humphrey Bogart movie, head to Rick's Cafe, opened by American Kathy Kriger in 2004, a marvelous evocation of the film.

But Americans living in Morocco advise that there's no such thing as a "must-see" list. "There are many places beyond Marrakech that people should consider putting on their agenda," said Vanessa Noel Brown, from Washington D.C., who has been studying in Rabat, the capital city, on a postgraduate scholarship since September 2007.

The U.S. Department of State warns that the "potential for terrorist violence" in Morocco is high. But the number of American visitors to Morocco is slowly increasing, according to statistics from the tourist board and the U.S. Embassy here. In 2007, 131,000 Americans visited, 13 percent more than in 2006, when 115,000 Americans arrived.

Image: A Moroccan woman draws a henna tattoo on a tourist
Abdeljalil Bounhar / AP
A Moroccan woman, left, draws a henna tattoo on the hand of a tourist, on the Jamaa El Fanaa square in Marrakech, Morocco.

"Americans like Morocco — they get a taste of the Arabic world, without having to go to the Middle East," said Yassine Naciri, who works at a mid-range hotel in the old part of Marrakech, the tourism hub of the country.

His hotel, Marhbabikoum, like many, is the of the traditional "riad" style: quaintly decorated rooms built around a tiled courtyard, gently lit by candlelight in the evening.

The very best riads are complete with an in-house "hammam," an opulent version of traditional Moroccan communal bathhouses.

  If you go

Morocco Tourism; 212-221-1583.

It is also possible to stay in a restored kasbah. There are hundreds of them around the country; they once served as fortresses for the most important families. Some stand empty now, while others have been turned into luxury hotels. But budget travelers can also find cheap hostels and guesthouses all over the country, for as little as $10 a night.

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Foreigners can expect to attract attention, especially in the more touristy areas, where touts — people who offer unsolicited services for tips — are desperate for business.

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Those worried about language difficulties should be reassured that English is more and more widely spoken, according to Hamid Khairi, founder of the Morocco section of CouchSurfers, the popular U.S.-based accommodation swap Web site, which is an option for those traveling on a shoestring. "But basic French is useful," he said.

The main language, the Moroccan Arabic dialect known as "derija," is quite different from modern standard Arabic, even posing problems for native Arabic speakers.

To confuse things further, many Moroccans also speak one of the Berber languages, Tachelhit, Central Atlas Tamazight or Tarifit.


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